The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
BETA PHOTO: "Black Face" is pitch 2 as described here (or p1 i...
Description
A southeast-facing wall about 1000' high. It is across from the Grotto picnic area. The only well known route on it is Iron Messiah, a quality grade IV 5.10.
Good views of this wall are obtained from the picnic area and from Zion Lodge.
Getting There
From the Grotto picnic area, cross the river on the Angel's Landing hiking trail. After about 100', take the left fork, toward Emerald Pools.
The trail quickly gains one or two hundred feet of elevation, then levels off. At this point, you are pretty close to the base of Spearhead. Continue on the trail until below the start of your route, then look for an existing climbers trail or a convenient drainage.
Total time from picnic area to base of wall is about 15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spearhead:
Iron Messiah 5.10 Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV
This route is similar to Epinephrine at Red Rock, but a little wilder and not as good.The route follows a large, left-facing corner system on the left side of The Spearhead. It is easily scoped from the vicinity of the Zion Lodge.Start at a right-angling ramp system below the main corner. As of this writing there is a fixed rope midway up the ramp.P1 (4th class, 200+') Clamber up the ramp to a large ledge. The ledge contains a tree with rap slings. Abo...[more]Browse More Classics in UT