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Spearhead this week?
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By April23
From Boulder
Jul 3, 2011
Gearing up for Lunar Ecstacy
I'm thinking of climbing North Ridge on Spearhead (weather permitting) wednesday and was wondering if anyone knows what the conditions are like. I'm fairly new to alpine climbing.

FLAG
By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Jul 3, 2011
I was hoping to do either the flying buttress spearhead or petit grepon on Wednesday.

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.
Lots of snow on all of the alpine approaches in the Park from what I hear. My friend did the Petit a few weeks ago. If you are willing to do the slog, then it will be worth it as you won't have the usual crowds.

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Jul 4, 2011
How long of a slog are we talking

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By Top Rope Hero
From Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 8, 2011
WHAT THE HELL IS HE BELAYING WITH!?!
Sorry, folks...

Official report from Kristen Moody, who handles special permits for the park says that anything above 10 is still deep, wet, and sloggish. Particularly the east side of the park.

Lumpy is still lookin' good at this point...

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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Jul 8, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
Kristen might not know everything....


Joe on the crux of the barb(10-) 7-4-11
Joe on the crux of the barb(10-) 7-4-11

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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jul 8, 2011
Imaginate
Phil, sssshhhh.

Also, glad to see you got out on your days off.

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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Jul 8, 2011
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
Adam on ATO.
Adam on ATO.


On 4th pitch of All Two Obvious (July 3, 2011).

The approach is snowy but doable.

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By justin dubois
From Estes Park
Jul 8, 2011
Lost Cities 5.12a,Black Canyon,CO
bring a change of socks, and give 'er! the snow can in fact help out quite a bit this time of year. As in making the descents easier! That being said, this is THE snowiest summer I have seen in 10 years of living up here.

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By rickpat
From Boulder, Co
Jul 28, 2011
Edge of Time
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!

FLAG
By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jul 29, 2011
Me and Spearhead
Indeed, a permit is needed to bivy in the Park... at least legally.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2011
Bocan
rickpat wrote:
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!


It's a long hike, past black lake. And yes on the bivy. IMO you should bivy legally and support the park. It's an easy process.

FLAG
By Derek W
Jul 29, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron
Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park?

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By David Hodges
From Parker, Colorado
Jul 29, 2011
Rubicon J Tree CA
rickpat wrote:
How was the climb? I plan on doing the North Ridge in about a week, how was the hike/approach? Does anyone know if you need to buy a permit to bivy at the base of Spearhead? Thanks, any beta will be much appreciated!


Just did the barb yesterday. Did the hike in with only tennis shoes and it was fine much of the snow has melted out there is just a little bit left on trail up from Black Lake to Spearhead but boots are not required. Route is perfectly dry and in great shape. Have fun!

FLAG
By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jul 29, 2011
Imaginate
Wehling wrote:
Do you need to reserve a bivy permit or can you get one on your way into the park?


Usually you don't need to reserve one, I've always gotten the one I wanted when the day of. The only problem is either way you have to go in person to the main office outside of estes during normal business hours. This is a super pain if you want to bivy at the diamond on a Friday night after work, since you have to drive further than the Long's trailhead and make it there before they close.

FLAG
By rickpat
From Boulder, Co
Jul 30, 2011
Edge of Time
Thanks everyone for the input. I'll let you know how it goes!

FLAG
 


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