Spear of Destiny 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Brandon W, Taylor Skokan, Paul Bucher |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | all |
| Submitted By: | paul bucher on May 22, 2012 |
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spear of destiny tower
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Description Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves. Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite.
Location The approach trail takes you up under the giant roofs. The tower becomes obvious on your left the closer you get to the main wall.
Protection Quickdraws, 8 bolts, 3-bomber-bolt anchor.
working the fa
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taylor on the ffa
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on top
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spear of destiny
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In the crack
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drake
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| Comments on Spear of Destiny |
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By Bondo
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| This is an awesome climb not to hard. The bolts are just perfect. And a great view from the top. |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Aug 12, 2012
| i just talked to some folks (down at super crack) who had done the route and felt it was harder than 5.8. they said 5.9+. they felt there should be more good holds for 5.8 and the body bridge moves were a bit much for 5.8 as well. |
By Dana Prosser
From: boulder,co
Oct 17, 2012
| A really unique route with a cool summit. We found the climbing to be a little unnerving because of the unique style (full body stemming). Felt more like 5.9 |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Dec 9, 2012
| four friends climbed it 12/5/12 and all said 5.9. so, done deal, changed it to 5.9 |
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Apr 28, 2013
| Wow! The spear is amazing!
Thanks for all your contributions to the area guys. |
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