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Picnic Lunch Wall
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Picnic Lunch Wall 
Spartacus 
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Spartacus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, Mark Chapman, 1987
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009
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Finishing up the crux on Spartacus.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Spartacus is a quality route, with sustained difficulty and mostly excellent rock. Begin with an unusual move to a large fang. Undercling the fang and move left to a good sloper. Mantle the subtle ledge, then up to killer knobs under the shallow roof. Moving past this roof & the third bolt is the crux. A pair of good edges up & left lead to a vertical slot in a shallow seam, and a few more tenous moves to get established above the roof.

Once above the roof, continue up rounded flakes & quintessential Smith knobs, past a few large pockets towards the top of the wall. The rock deteriorates substantially near the top. Several fractured blocks guard the finishing mantle.


Location 

Immediately right of Appian Way, and the next route left of La Siesta.


Protection 

Bolts. Stick clip recommended. The 2-bolt anchor is high and to the right of the climb.



Photos of Spartacus Slideshow Add Photo
Spartacus lies in a beautiful position, high on the right side of the Picnic Lunch Wall.
Spartacus lies in a beautiful position, high on th...
Moving from the fang to the big sloper on Spartacus.
Moving from the fang to the big sloper on Spartacu...
Climbing Spartacus with the Crooked River & Shiprock in the distance.  The upper slab involves excellent 5.10-ish pocket & knob climbing.
Climbing Spartacus with the Crooked River & Shipro...
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