Spartacus 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, Mark Chapman, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009 |
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Spartacus lies in a beautiful position, high on th...
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Description Spartacus is a quality route, with sustained difficulty and mostly excellent rock. Begin with an unusual move to a large fang. Undercling the fang and move left to a good sloper. Mantle the subtle ledge, then up to killer knobs under the shallow roof. Moving past this roof & the third bolt is the crux. A pair of good edges up & left lead to a vertical slot in a shallow seam, and a few more tenous moves to get established above the roof. Once above the roof, continue up rounded flakes & quintessential Smith knobs, past a few large pockets towards the top of the wall. The rock deteriorates substantially near the top. Several fractured blocks guard the finishing mantle.
Location Immediately right of Appian Way, and the next route left of La Siesta.
Protection Bolts. Stick clip recommended. The 2-bolt anchor is high and to the right of the climb.
Moving from the fang to the big sloper on Spartacu...
| Finishing up the crux on Spartacus.
| Climbing Spartacus with the Crooked River & Shipro...
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