Sparky And The Firedog
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 85'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)|
|Season: ||Spring thru Fall|
|Page Views: ||978|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006|
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BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.
Sparky starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the left route that goes through the bulging wall.
Nuts, small TCUs up to #2 Camalot size. A #.4 or #.5 will protect the bulgy crux.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Sparky and Answered Prayers. Obscurity...
|Comments on Sparky And The Firedog
|By Larry Coats|
Sep 1, 2007
First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
|By David Arthur Sampson|
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
One of my most favorite climbs at the overlook (so far!).
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013
An excellent pitch for the grade. Marginal pieces off the ledge give you some comfort before sinking in a bomber #.5 just below the actual crux. Enjoy the crisp 5.8 finger crack to the top. Definitely on the classic 5.10 list for the crag, but not a good first 5.10- lead.