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 ADVANCED
The Overlook
Routes Sorted
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Redrum AK A Jungleland T 
Agent Orange T 
Alley Oop T 
Amateur Hour T 
Amputation T 
Angel's Delight T 
Answered Prayers T 
Applesticks T 
Blunderbuss T 
Burger King T 
Burnt Buns T 
Bush Rush T 
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 
Circus Circus T 
Cloudwalk T 
Constant Gardener  T,TR 
CrackUp T 
Devil's Deed T 
Direct Left T 
Duck Soup T 
Dugald's Right T 
Dugald's Route T 
Dyzygy T 
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 
Fresh Air T 
Gambit T 
George's Niche T 
Gingerbread T,TR 
Gridle, The T 
Griffo T 
Grunt'N'Dangle T 
Hand Jive T 
Hard Rain T 
Head Cheese T 
Hidden Hollow T 
Horn, The T 
I've Always Been Crazy T 
Isaiah T 
Jelly Roll T 
Left Trinity Crack T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Magumba's Corner T 
Mellow Yellow T 
Microtome T 
Middle Trinity Crack T 
Mint Jam T 
Mint Julep T 
Morning After T 
Morning's Mourning T 
Nickle Slot T 
Normally 3 Rurps T 
Normally Urgent T 
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining T 
Obediah T 
Obscurity T 
Orange Julius T 
Orange Out Direct T 
PegLeg I, II T 
Pensativa T 
Piddley Shit T 
Red Wagon T 
Right Trinity Crack T 
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 
Sexual Deviations T 
Sin Ropa T 
Sintisa T 
Sneak Preview T 
Sparky And The Firedog T 
Stalemate T 
Stonegate T 
Swedish Britfast Crack T 
Syzygy T 
Trinity Arete TR 
Trinity Roofs T 
Wager Crack T 
Wanderlust T 

Sparky And The Firedog 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Season: Spring thru Fall
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.


Location 

Sparky starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the left route that goes through the bulging wall.


Protection 

Nuts, small TCUs up to #2 Camalot size. A #.4 or #.5 will protect the bulgy crux.



Photos of Sparky And The Firedog Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Sparky and Answered Prayers.  Obscurity and Fresh Air to the right, Penicillin Debut (TR) up the arete in the middle right half.  Someone should get a better exposed shot and replace this one.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Sparky and Answered Prayers. Obscurity...
Comments on Sparky And The Firedog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)

By Paul Davidson
Apr 22, 2008

One fine climb, highly recommended.

By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of my most favorite climbs at the overlook (so far!).

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013

An excellent pitch for the grade. Marginal pieces off the ledge give you some comfort before sinking in a bomber #.5 just below the actual crux. Enjoy the crisp 5.8 finger crack to the top. Definitely on the classic 5.10 list for the crag, but not a good first 5.10- lead.