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Sparks Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Remains T 
Divide and Conquer T 
Generic Spark T 
Go Sparky Go T 
Hawk, The T 
Ici c`est bienne T 
Jump Start T 
Jupiter Crack T 
Low Spark T 
Old Sparky T 
Rowdy T 
Skraps T 
Slings and Arrows T 
Spark It Up Sparky T 
Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 
Sparkling Prom Date T 
Sparkling Schloob T 
Sparkling Schnitzel T 
Sparkling Spurs T 
Sparkling Zygote T 
Sparks of the Tempest T 
Tom Thumb T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
What a Fool Believes T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sparks Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,500'
Page Views: 11,647
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2006
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Description 

A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.


Getting There 

To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
Not your odometer when turning, this will become useful.
Cross the creek after less than a mile & continue back towards The Cottonwoods area, staying left at all possible right turns and passing Technicolor Wall. After you have gone 3.8 to 3.9 miles, the cliff-band on your right will come very close to the road. A hogback of land falls from this cliff to a rib of raised land near the road, but just before you reach this, there is a pulloff with a jeep road cutting off right, back sharply north in reverse to your direction of travel. Exit the road here and park.
The trail is very faint and easy to loose, but not too strenuous or long, regardless. It should take 20-40 minutes to arrive depending on your rack size and fitness.
To hike up to the cliff, look for a sweeping roof at the center of the SE face, spanning perhaps 50 feet with 3 end-to-end sections at slightly different elevations from the ground. This will be your point of arrival at the cliff. Note downward from there a break in the rotten red cliff-band, just left of a very large boulder perched at its edge. This is also important. Now look down from there to the chossy, dirty "cone" of soil just right of there.
Start hiking by going in your former direction of travel, South. Get on to the first hogback or "rib" of earth and start making your war up to the right side of the cone of earth previously mentioned. By now you should have picked up a trail. Go right up it's side on some flat terrain that is foot-packed past 1 rock cairn. A the top, walk up and left behind a big boulder and a small tree just past the cairn to follow the trail. You will arrive at more flat-ish switch backs, which will wind up and left towards the perched boulder. Go left of the boulder and up to the base of the cliff, arriving at the base-trail just left of the route "Low Spark." The trail at the base of the cliff is surprisingly easy to travel and flat.


Climbing Season


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',11],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sparks Wall:
Skraps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sparkling Zygote   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown 5.10   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Sparkling Gefilte Fish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jump Start   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Sparkling Schnitzel   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slings and Arrows   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sparks of the Tempest   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Low Spark   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Jupiter Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 130'   
Go Sparky Go   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sparkling Spurs   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Sparks Wall

Featured Route For Sparks Wall
Photo credit to Kayla Watson

Jupiter Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall
2 bolts protect 5.11 moves through Chinle trad pro is available but is more pscyhological than legit, first few ascent parties did it w/out the bolts but was made safe at the request/approval of SH. then a slowly widening hands crack to the left fork which widens from new #5 camalots to #6 camalots...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Sparks Wall
Photos of Sparks Wall Slideshow Add Photo
treed lightly  an respect this great place.
treed lightly an respect this great place.
the sweet ruins to the right of the wall. be very careful if you do venture over. the walk over is very loose.
the sweet ruins to the right of the wall. be very ...
the wood work inside the dwelling is so cool look but don't touch.
the wood work inside the dwelling is so cool look ...
the great wood work.
the great wood work.
Comments on Sparks Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 4, 2006

Sparkling Spurs and Low Spark (1st pitch) both received new anchors in 2005 courtesy of Climbing Magazine's ARI program.

By pfwein
Oct 27, 2009

We had the area to ourselves on a perfect Oct. weekend. The route Scenic Line (in Bloom's guide) was worth doing (it's a right-to-left dihedral substantially to the right of the listed climbs that takes mostly #1 Camalots opening to #2s)--I would add it but don't have pics.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 5, 2009

Alternate approach beta: Go 2.5 miles past the 4x4 cattlegaurd and park at the turnout with the big boulders. Find the cairned trail at the boulders and follow it to the crag.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012

Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.