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A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.
To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sparks Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sparks Wall:
Skraps 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparkling Zygote 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 90'
Sparkling Gefilte Fish 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Jump Start 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 60'
Sparkling Schnitzel 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Slings and Arrows 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparks of the Tempest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Jupiter Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 130'
Go Sparky Go 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparkling Spurs 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Sparks Wall
Go Sparky Go 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall
If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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