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A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.
To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
25 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sparks Wall:
Skraps 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparkling Zygote 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 90'
Sparkling Gefilte Fish 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Jump Start 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 60'
Sparkling Schnitzel 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Slings and Arrows 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparks of the Tempest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Jupiter Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 130'
Go Sparky Go 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparkling Spurs 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Sparks Wall
Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall
A great climb with a few different cruxes, but the difficulty is largely associated with its length.P1: (5.11, 155') Start up very moderate terrain on the front of a huge, solid stack of flakes, climbing about 8-10 meters to the top of this to intercept a splitter 2" crack. Place a few pieces of 2" gear as you blast through the opening thin-hands crux and then past a section that will take a 2.5" friend or a red camalot, back to 2" and then continue to a few good stances and a rest before it ge...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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