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Sparks Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Sparkling Spurs 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Hong?
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Mar 7, 2010
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Description 

A very long finger and tight hands splitter through a roof. Punch through a steep, bouldery finger start (crux 1). The hanging flake (at 30') seems very solid for jamming and pro. Tight hands and hands lead to a first anchor. 5.11. Tackle a bulge through .75 camalots (crux 2). Get a rest in the chimney. Then swing out a stacking splitter (.75-.5 camalots, crux 3) to a daunting but mellow move over a block(.4 protects). Finish by mantling the ledge (#2 protects).


Location 

Found not far to the right of where the trail hits the wall. Old plaque at the start.


Protection 

Camalots: .3 to 2. Many .5 to 1. Save a few .5-.75 for the top slitter after the roofs.



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