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Sparkling Schnitzel, a great hands-to-fists-to-off...
This route is a good route if you like off-width. It has a relatively short but well protected OW crux, solid rock, and interesting climbing. The high crux just before the final bulge is mitigated by some sloping mantles and feet on the right side in the right-facing corner. Yet these are bad enough that the route still earns its grade of 5.11- so although it gets partial shade, you are unlikely to get cold while leading it.
Near the far North end of the East/Southeast face of the Sparks Wall there is a broad but detached tower barely separated from the base of the main cliff. On the main face of this, facing the road and perhaps 15 meters from its left edge, there is a vertical crack system that goes from tight hands to wider up top. This is Sparkling Gefilte Fish. To the right of this perhaps 6 meters more there is a striking off-hands to off-width in a right-facing corner, Sparkling Schnitzel.
Gear from 2.5" to #4 camalot. The top anchors are 2 bolts on a sloping shelf up and left of the final bulge. I just reinforced the old crispy webbing with fresh, but it is lying across an edge and should be checked with every use. They are not visible from the ground. A #3.5 camalot is a good piece to place right before topping out to inspect these anchors.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 17, 2013
I found a #5 to be useful at the wide portion 8' below the chains.
Also found that racking most of the large gear on your right side was helpful.