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El Capitan Base Routes
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Sparkling Give-away 
TRON 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) 

Sparkling Give-away 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pete Takeda, Eric Kohl
Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Aug 13, 2007
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Description 

This is a fun route that can be top-roped after leading La Cosita Left or Right or it can be led. (Although we didn't lead it that day it seems like it would be a fairly civilized lead.) It starts by climbing the chimney of La Cosita Left. When you get to a finger crack that angles out right take that past a piton (additional gear can be placed along the traverse). After finishing the traverse go straight up past two bolts and finish at a two-bolt rappel anchor.


Location 

This route is just to the right of La Cosita, Left.


Protection 

There is a pin on the hand-traverse and then two bolts. You may want gear before the pin and after the second bolt. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.



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By karcbr
Mar 6, 2008

the route sparkling giveaway was done by keith reynolds and eric kohl
pete takeda had nothing to do with it!

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A great route with two distinct cruxes.

It's better to place gear before the piton at the start of the hand traverse. Clipping the piton is tricky while in the midst of the traverse. Consider heel hooking the left corner while moving over to the great rest on the arete to the right.

The .11a crux comes between the first and second bolt. A reachy move (not necessarily easier if you're taller) will get you to a crimp, then another bolt. One more balancy .10d step around to the left leads to easier (5.7) climbing to the top.

Fun and well protected route. Not sure why supertopo suggests only toproping this route when the lead is safe.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Bring a couple of finger pieces if you want to feel safe before jumping into the traverse. Otherwise you are soloing burly 5.10 and clipping the pin in the middle of the traverse seemed hard (I clipped gear and shot out to the corner directly). Bring a .75 or .5 BD if you want gear for the last few moves before the anchor (recommended). This climb is fun and perplexing at times. Highly recommended.