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Sparerib Area
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Sparerib 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 5,388
Submitted By: Sarge on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Crux on the second pitch. Amazing hand and fist ja...

Description 

This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8 it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.

P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')

P2. In this superb pitch, follow the righthand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Sling tree for anchor. (150')

Descent: Walk off either side of the buttress.

Location 

Sparerib is its own formation.

Protection 

Bring a standard Alpine rack. Build own anchors.


Photos of Sparerib Slideshow Add Photo
Spare Rib <br />Pitch Two
BETA PHOTO: Spare Rib
Pitch Two
Sparerib second pitch.
Sparerib second pitch.
Spare Rib
Spare Rib
Gear at the summit to keep rope out of rope-eating cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Gear at the summit to keep rope out of rope-eating...
Sparerib
Sparerib

Comments on Sparerib Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jul 18, 2007

Is there no longer a set of bolts at the top of the first pitch?
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 2, 2007

Can be done in one LONG pitch. It isn't 225 feet as the poster says.
By Tater Tot
From: Custer, SD
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch.
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Mar 29, 2010

the tree visible at the top of the rib is good for slinging (double length handy) for the second pitch belay.
By Bud Martin
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 11, 2010

To make a the first pitch more difficult, climb the two cracks to the right of the 5.6 crack that is the standard first pitch.
By W.S.
From: Montana
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Anchoring to that skinny tree at the top is the best. I love looking at from afar anywhere in the canyon, totally worth the long hot hike up to the route.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 25, 2013

The crux of this route is the hike.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cool route. Not sure where the 5.8 is.

FS OS trailed a 70m for the 2nd and there was plenty.