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Spare Rib 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George and Joanne Urioste, 1980
Page Views: 2,880
Submitted By: John Wilder on Oct 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Gin...

Description 

This is a really neat route and a good option if Crimson is crowded and you need to kill an hour or two. It's also worthy of the hike by itself, especially if pair with a trip up Test Tube or Pachyderm.

About 100 yards east of Crimson is a small buttress with a prominent varnished corner on its left-hand side. Just to the right of this corner at the base is a striking finger crack- this is your route.

Pitch 1: Head up the finger crack through a bulge to the belay. 5.8, 85'

Pitch 2: Step left off the belay and follow bolts and pro to the next belay. 5.7, 85'

Pitch 3: Head straight up on somewhat easy ground, following the bolts to a hanging belay. 5.6, 85'

Pitch 4: Head straight up to the summit on 4th class terrain.

Descent: Rap the route with a single rope.

Protection 

Bring cam to 2", belays are bolted and some bolts can be found on the upper pitches.


Photos of Spare Rib Slideshow Add Photo
When rebolting with George Urioste previously, he ...
When rebolting with George Urioste previously, he ...
Test Tube and Spare Rib
BETA PHOTO: Test Tube and Spare Rib
Rapping off of Spare Rib, with Test Tube to the ri...
Rapping off of Spare Rib, with Test Tube to the ri...
A day's work with a hand drill and a very patient ...
A day's work with a hand drill and a very patient ...

Comments on Spare Rib Add Comment
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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 29, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All bolts on pitches 1 through 3 are brand new - thanks to the ASCA. There is one bolt on the last pitch that is still a Urioste original.
By Greg Barnes
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought each of the first 3 pitches was solid 5.8, and a bit runout on the second and third.
By Brian in SLC
Oct 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the new hardware, Greg!

I'll ditto your ratings, except to say that the first pitch is four stars, the second pitch three stars (maybe easy 5.8-ish?) and the third pitch was a tad tricky and head's up at a stouter version of 5.8 than either the first or second pitch (with softer rock to boot).

I noted the third pitch belay station has an aluminum hanger (Petzl) for one of the anchors. Looks ok, but, maybe some day...

My partners ratings for the first three pitches were: 5.6, 5.7 and 5.8.
By smassey
From: CO
Oct 21, 2009

Really fun route. The lefthand belay bolt on pitch 2 is quite loose. It was not coming out of the hole, but wiggled about 1/2 inch. It can be backed up with a cordalette on the first bolt of p3, about 7' higher. It is a hanging stance, so that'd be a good idea.
By Stone Nude
Nov 1, 2011

Heard this week that the anchor bolt is worse, still needs replacement. Good call on noticing the aluminum hanger and posting up, Brian-that kind of detail helps replacement crews know exactly what to bring.
By Homer Patterson
Mar 26, 2014

The climb was three fun pitches with a fourth pitch that isn't worth going to the trouble for. I would call p4 low fifth class: there was sparse protection and no anchor bolts to be found. There was pretty fresh looking webbing there today with a rap biner but if you climb the fourth pitch be prepared to rap off a suspect tree and leave some webbing behind.