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Spanky's Playground

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Spanky's Playground 


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Location: 47.6968, -52.6993 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 220
Administrators: Phil Stennett, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Phil Stennett on Apr 18, 2013
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Spanky's Playground

Description 

A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.


Getting There 

Walk up a trail in between two houses. Turn right at the top of the trail and continue until you see a trail going down to the left. This trail leads down to some loose rock that you need to scramble down and then head south to the top of the face. The easiest way to get down is the rappel from the bolts of a climb but there is also a trail that can be scrambled down.


Climbing Season


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Spanky's Playground
Retreat! topo

Retreat! 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  North America : Canada : ... : Spanky's Playground
This is a fun route, especially if you're sick of face climbs. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide. Wait until the waves draw back enough then quickly walk to base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of l...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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