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Spanky's Playground

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Even Tide S 
Retreat! T 
Tachycardia T 
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Spanky's Playground  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 47.6968, -52.6993 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 331
Administrators: Phil Stennett, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Phil Stennett on Apr 18, 2013
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Description 

A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.

Getting There 

Park at the pull-off on Wades Lane and walk back along the road to the ATV trail before the houses as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail cross straight over to a trail down the other side. This trail leads down to some loose rock that you need to scramble down and then head south to the top of the face. The easiest way to get down is the rappel from the bolts of a climb but there is also a trail that can be scrambled down.

NOTE: The old trail directly above the pull off has recently been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using this trail to prevent potential access issues. The new trail is just as easy, if not a little easier anyway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 194.8 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Spanky's Playground
Tachycardia 5.10d

Tachycardia 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Spanky's Playground
Start by climbing up a thin seam (RP's) to the edge of the first roof about 20 feet up. Climb the corner above this roof then traverse under the second roof via the slab on the right until it is possible to top out the climb. The route is trickier than it looks, and doesn't really let up until you're standing on top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Spanky's Playground Slideshow Add Photo
The new approach (marked as ATV trail). Credit: Da...
BETA PHOTO: The new approach (marked as ATV trail). Credit: Da...
The new approach (as seen from Wades Lane). Credit...
BETA PHOTO: The new approach (as seen from Wades Lane). Credit...

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