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West Face
Routes Sorted
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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Spank The Monkey 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy
Page Views: 2,290
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 27, 2006

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Bob Bickford
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.


Location 

The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.


Protection 

RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.



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By TomKingsbury
Oct 16, 2007

although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!

pk

on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A must do on the classic 5.10 tour of the Tower.