Spain beta?

A friend and I are traveling to Spain next February and March for a climbing trip. I know there is a lot of beta out there but I'm curious to get some MP opinions. We'll be starting in Barcelona and traveling around a bit from there. So here are my questions:

-What are the can't miss climbing destinations in Spain?
-Should we anticipate camping near most climbing areas or are we more likely to be staying in local hostels?
-Is it worth bringing a trad rack or should we only focus on sport climbing?
-Does anyone have experience renting a vehicle as a tourist from the US?

Thanks!

Un amigo y yo vamos a visitar Espana para un viaje de escalar durante el Febrero y Marzo. Yo se que ya hay mucho beta disponible pero tengo curiosidad de otras opiniones. Vamos a comenzar nuestro viaje en Barcelona y viajaremos mas de alli. Entonces, mi preguntas son:

-Que son los mejores destinos de escalar en Espana?
-Hay opciones para acampar acerca de la mayoria de los destinos o es mejor planificar a quedar en hostales?
-Vale la pena a traer un "trad rack" o es mejor concentrarnos en "sport climbing?"
-Es posible y asequible aquilar un coche como Americano o no?

Gracias, y lo siento por la falta de la gramatica y acentos apropriados!

I just spent 3 months there (March, April & May). Is your profile accurate as to ability 11A? I think the answers vary greatly based upon that.

As far as renting a car, we used a variety of rental companies, but never rented any one car for greater than 30 days as that allowed us to not buy the liability insurance and to be covered by our credit card coverage. Looks like you are <25...that may cost you more. We did look into some lease/sell-back programs...these tend to be great deals in France, but were not cheaper than renting in Spain (for US).

A LOT of areas have very close Refugio's (Hostels). We stayed in some decent apartments (AirBnB).

I went there to clip bolts and Feb/March is PRIME time for that!

Definitely buy the Lleida Climbs and Tarragona Climbs books in advance. (Dani Adrada and Pete O'donavan guide books). They are excellent and will help immensely with your planning.

Must do areas are what really depends on what level/type you are looking for. At 11A...I think the good sport climbing...is more limited. I have no experience with the trad in Spain...

While I did not do them...Terradets has some impressively long moderate multi-pitch routes that are mainly bolted. In general, my experience was that the climbing quality improved with the rating. While I have climbed 5.13, I really climb mostly 11's and 12's....in Spain (more than just about anywhere else I have ever been to)..I was wishing I could climb much harder...just to enjoy the best rock/routes.

BUT, just buy those 2 guides ASAP...they will help you make the right call.

The true must not miss areas (but not at 11A) are:

1. Santa Linya-Cova Gran (the colder the better at this south facing cave) The Cova Gran is just one crag and offers nothing in the low 11 range. This is near Balaguer. Base yourself out of Balaguer and you are an hours drive from the large majority of the best crags in Spain. The only good sub 12 crags I really thought was worthwhile was Camarasa and Tartareu near Balaguer (in the Lleida guide).

2. Rodellar (still a bit cold in March...most likely); Rodellar is MUCH more expansive than Cova Gran...and is on my top 3 list for best climbing areas I have been too. It is probably the most popular and best sport area in all of Spain.

3. Margalef (Espadelles and Finestra); 950 routes within a 10 minute drive of the refugio! The climbing is 99% pockets and a tad sharpish. It's actually not the best rock/climbing, but its still really fun...and the immense amount of routes is amazing. Margalef has hundreds of routes under 11A and a very close, cool and cheap Refugio. I did not find many of the moderates there to be that good. That said, Magrana 5.11A, is one of my favorite routes ever.

Thanks for the info! I actually am climbing a bit harder these days, just hadn't updated it. I'll be climbing a lot this fall season and anticipate breaking into the 12a/b range by February. My partner climbs considerable harder than I, 12+ and likely harder by February. That's good to know about rental cars, fortunately I'll be 25 by the time I'm there. Do you mind if I ask how much you were generally paying for the rentals? Thanks again!

Antonio Caligiuri wrote:Thanks for the info! I actually am climbing a bit harder these days, just hadn't updated it. I'll be climbing a lot this fall season and anticipate breaking into the 12a/b range by February. My partner climbs considerable harder than I, 12+ and likely harder by February. That's good to know about rental cars, fortunately I'll be 25 by the time I'm there. Do you mind if I ask how much you were generally paying for the rentals? Thanks again!

Definitely get the guidebooks, makes a huge difference. If you get a car I would recommend trying to find a cheap apartment in Cornudella, and using that as a base to check out Siurana, Arboli, Montsant, and to a lesser degree Margalef. I think the best beta for Margalef is to camp out at the dam, which is free, has water and a good group of transients.
I was able to rent a car from Enterprise in Reus for 12 euros a day, it was real easy and more reliable than Firefly or Europcar.
If you're real set on only climbing in Spain that time of year, I would say forego the rack. But if there is any chance you'll make it else where, I'd bring it. I was just in Spain for this past spring, lugged a double rack everywhere, which sucked, but then I went to UK and had the best time ever, because I had the rack.

Do not miss out on Montsant (Raco de Misa)

So I'm trying to figure out my budget for the trip, I'm curious how much most people spent per week or month while over there.

I like 11 sport and trad. I have been to Spain a few times. My costs vary on where I go. To minimize cost I go to places with cheap lodging or stay with friends. I bailed on Catalunya a few Decembers ago and drove south to the coast near Alicante. For Spaniards it's a long drive. For us it was a six hour cruise. Don't be afraid to get on the road for warm dry rock. There is a lot of it in Spain.

Monserrat has a lot of climbing, some mixed requiring a small rack. It has a refugio in the area near the Monastery and on the north side.

In your range, I would also include Riglos (north of Rodellar), a group of 1,000' conglomerate limestone towers. A nice refugio is located in the town. The climbing is excellent as is the rock.

I brought a trad rack to climb in Ordesa, 1,500' of hard sandstone, all trad with plenty of pitons to keep you on route. It may be too cold in February though.

Cornudella is perfect for going to Siurana and Monsant (I'd skip Margalef unless you like sharp pockets, as attested by dnoB). It is short and unpleasant IMO.

Don't forget to leave nothing in your car when climbing.

What is the standard trad rack for major areas like El Chorro, Montserrat?

Hey Antonio,

most have been probably already said. I would add two things:

1. Car: book it in advance to get it cheaper (watch out -> some companies have apprx. 3 days to deliver some kind of "code" you will have to give upon arrival. In other words -> if you book it online less than 3 days in advance, it does not make sense, since you will not obtain the code yet and your ONLINE booking would be useless. There might be big difference between online and "on the spot" price.

2. Tip -> Siurana, absolutely beautiful especially if you like technical climbing stuff.

Enjoy Spain:)

adam