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Last week at Spaghetti Western. mmmmm
One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped. This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator. Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route. Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!
A mix of sizes from yellow aliens through #3 camalot with an emphasis on #2 camalots (5 will do). A #4 camalot will protect the OW at the top.
Aaron Cloud starting up the dihedral.
Milking the first rest
Stellar climbing on Spaghetti Western, Indian Cree...
About to switch into the overhanging handcrack on ...
So good! photo: C. Treiber
Anyone else see the face?
|Comments on Spaghetti Western
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2001
Yellow camalots (2.5") protect the route most of the way, bat take a few blues (3.5"). If you want to lower off of, rap, or TR this climb on a single rope, you better have a 70M. I have climbed harder 10+ routes, by the way. The crux is either the very beginning where it is thin, or the slightly wider section just prior to passing the top of the bulge.
|By Ben F|
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jan 31, 2002
11+, or anything more than 11- is a generous rating of this climb.
[I apologize if I sounded like I was spraying. I fully admit that I like to spray. I believe that I have only down-rated 2 climbs on this board - this one and Incredible Handcrack. In the case of IH, I said something along the lines of the route being around 9+ for most people, but harder for those with either really small or really large hands. Many on this board, including myself, have noted that the ratings at the Creek are subjective. That being said, I still believe that this climb is NOT 11+. Mr. Bubb also concurs in the previous comment. I am comparing this climb to several others in the 11 range at the Creek. At any rate, both this climb and Incredible Handcrack are very sexy and most people should not be too intimidated by their grades. If you are comfortable leading 11- here, then definitely consider giving this one a try.]
|By Kirk Woerner|
Sep 29, 2003
The bottom was easier IMO than Coyne Crack Simulator since you have some feet out right. Maybe The fact that the bottom is a corner green camalot rather than straight in makes it easier.
That being said, the route is LONG and pumpy which made me hang. This a great workout because it goes slowly through a lot of sizes, getting to the easier sizes as it kicks back more.
|By Laurent Meillon|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2005
The new Indian Creek Guidebook rates it 5.11. Although there isn't any compulsory hard 5.11 move on the route, the overall continuity and angle, combined with the cleverness required to optimise the rests past the roof, justifies a 5.11 grade for the average hand size. But most important, it's a suberb line!
|By Brian Weinstein|
May 6, 2006
not to be missed. 11a seems fair. a variety of sizes in a quality corner.
May 10, 2006
i dunno, small hands kinda suck on this thing. i dont really have any trouble on a majority of 5.11s, but i was panting on this thing. i think 11- is sandbagging, the roof is harder than other 11-s of the same style (think pink comes to mind.) then you got all of the other climbing that sandwiches it. granted ive climbed other harder 11s, but i think solid 11 is fair, and possibly 11+? i really dont know, nor do i really care. the route is freaking superb.
|By chris Kalous|
Nov 8, 2006
Anchors on this got cleaned up and beefed up last year. Thanks to climbing magazine's ARI.
|By Danny Inman|
Dec 6, 2006
This is the most "Incredible Hand Crack" that I have done, to date, at the creek.
Jul 9, 2009
This is one of my favorite climbs at Indian Creek. A superb & aesthetic line with great moves and plentiful pro. Outstanding!
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
Grade wars aside- its one of my favorite routes at the Creek. Long, varied, steep, fairly sustained climbing in a spectacular location- what more can you ask for?!