The Spaghetti Western Wall is a large Wingate crag on the west side of Red Canyon about 5 miles up the Mexican Mountain Road. The rock is high quality, and there are quite a few routes up here(much more than what is listed in the Bjornstad blue guidebook). There are even a pair of easy hand cracks, which is a rarity in the swell.
Drive to the mouth of Red Canyon, which is the first really major side canyon about 4.5 miles up the Mexican Mountain Road. 2WD will most likely be shut down here, but 4WD can continue into Red Canyon to the Wilderness Study area boundary. There are many nice campsites in Red Canyon.
To approach the wall, walk up the dry creek bed to where Red Canyon splits into two major branches. Take the left branch, and after a tenth of a mile or so leave the streambed/road at a campsite with a fire ring and a tree. Hike cross country to an obvious break in the Chinle cliffs below the middle of the wall. There isn't much of a trail, but there are some cairns scattered around and the going isn't hard with good routefinding. The hike up takes about an hour.
The start is in a left facing corner with a very large scary looking detached block.Climb gingerly but awkwardly onto the block and fire up the off fingers corner. After a tough 30' section, the corner switches to right facing, going from thin hands, good hands, and fists with a couple of pod moves. Terrific varied climbing with a couple of face holds for rests. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT