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Cyclops Rock
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Gray Cell Green S 
I, The T 
Leader's Fright T 
New Year's Day T 
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 
Overnight Sensation T 
Penelope's Walk T 
Spaghetti & Chili T 
Surface Tension T 
Thin Red Line T 
Ulysses' Bivouac T 

Spaghetti & Chili 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Frank Avela and Jack Knox, May 1986
Page Views: 2,087
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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This is such a fun move. It's only 5.7!

Description 

This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.

Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point). From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left. Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.

Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.

Protection 

Thin rack to around 2". Two-bolt anchor; can be backed up with a #2 camalot.


Photos of Spaghetti & Chili Slideshow Add Photo
Clark on S&C.
Clark on S&C.
Rap cleaning Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
Rap cleaning Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
Jenny about to head up S & C on top rope...
Jenny about to head up S & C on top rope...
Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chill...
Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chill...
Spaghetti and Chile - Starting the Crux
Spaghetti and Chile - Starting the Crux

Comments on Spaghetti & Chili Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The lieback flake at the start is cleanly cleaved but the highlight is the steep handcrack finish shared with Penelope's Walk.
By Rock Sucker
Feb 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun climb. It can be top-roped if desired. Perhaps climb "The Eye" and rappel down "Spaghetti and Chili" and then top-rope it a few times for some quick climbing fun...
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 20, 2004

True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 6, 2005

We attempted this route on Sun 3rd April 2005, and was attacked by a large crow while on the final finger crack finish. Had to be lowered and then rappel down for our gear.

The bird has a nest in the cave to the right of the last crack, and presumably has some young it is protecting.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

May 06, no bird problems. The steep lieback at the beginning is the crux, protected by a .4 camalot. The top exit crack is as Chris said, very fun. One or two bomber .75 camalots protect this move. Inbetween these, protection was somewhat sparse, despite what appearences might suggest. However, the climbing was super easy in that area. The addition of a bolt just after the grey patina area, where the holds are still big but dubious and a bit runout, would probably not be taken for granted by the beginner/novice leader. Rap off with a 60m rope or walk down the back side.
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun climb! Crux is getting off the ground and up on the flake with the lieback move and then the top traverse. The traverse is ever so slightly over hanging....From the flake to the traverse I didn't put any pro because super easy climbing...Probally not necessary but before I got up on the traverese I put a #4 BD Cam.
By Eric "Pig" Varley
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun climb and can be very well protected. But since when did a 5.7 have a 5.9 crux? Getting out from under the flake and establishing the lieback stance is very tenuous. The last time I did a vertical 5.7 lieback, I had this little thing called foot holds. Whatever, J-tree ratings don't seem to mean anything anyway.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 14, 2014

Anchor bolts have hangers only, as in no rap rings or chains. Can clip and set up TR, but last person has to walk off, which is easiest across the top to the SE side and down.