Spaghetti & Chili
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Clark on S&C.
This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.
Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point). From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left. Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.
Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.
Thin rack to around 2". Two-bolt anchor; can be backed up with a #2 camalot.
Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chilli" on...
Jenny about to head up S & C on top rope...
Rap cleaning Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
Spaghetti and Chile - Starting the Crux
|Comments on Spaghetti & Chili
|By C Miller|
Jan 10, 2004
The lieback flake at the start is cleanly cleaved but the highlight is the steep handcrack finish shared with Penelope's Walk.
|By Rock Sucker|
Feb 19, 2004
This is a fun climb. It can be top-roped if desired. Perhaps climb "The Eye" and rappel down "Spaghetti and Chili" and then top-rope it a few times for some quick climbing fun...
|By Brian Reynolds|
Feb 20, 2004
True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 6, 2005
We attempted this route on Sun 3rd April 2005, and was attacked by a large crow while on the final finger crack finish. Had to be lowered and then rappel down for our gear.
The bird has a nest in the cave to the right of the last crack, and presumably has some young it is protecting.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
May 16, 2006
May 06, no bird problems. The steep lieback at the beginning is the crux, protected by a .4 camalot. The top exit crack is as Chris said, very fun. One or two bomber .75 camalots protect this move. Inbetween these, protection was somewhat sparse, despite what appearences might suggest. However, the climbing was super easy in that area. The addition of a bolt just after the grey patina area, where the holds are still big but dubious and a bit runout, would probably not be taken for granted by the beginner/novice leader. Rap off with a 60m rope or walk down the back side.
|By Jeff Scofield|
From: Yorba Linda, CA
May 1, 2012
Super fun climb! Crux is getting off the ground and up on the flake with the lieback move and then the top traverse. The traverse is ever so slightly over hanging....From the flake to the traverse I didn't put any pro because super easy climbing...Probally not necessary but before I got up on the traverese I put a #4 BD Cam.