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Space...Madness
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.9 from 18
votes
Routes in Starship Enterprise
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One Size Fits All S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Romulan Route, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Space S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Space...Madness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Starship Enterprise T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Supernova S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Yer Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 3/8/10 |
| Page Views: | 2,823 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I'll try not to go off too much but lets just say i REALLY like this route. It's amazingly entertaining and varried. By far my favorite route I've developed. Ok I'll stop now and tell you about the climb.
It's now the farthest right route at the crag. Stick clip the first bolt and start by climbing up and hand traversing a ledge from left to right. Get a little rest on a knee-bar and/or a jug, clip a bolt above and continue to the right. A section of interesting technical climbing with cool holds (look for the undercling) finished your traverse and drops you on a ledge for a good rest before the crux. Climb up the smooth face on micro crimps past a couple bolts until the crimps pretty much end. Here is the crux, i dynoed to the ledge above but static moves could be done (at a harder grade perhaps). This section might be harder for shorter and or less dynamic climbers Once your hands are on the ledge do a perplexing mantel move and gain the sweet finish hold to the right of the anchor.
This one was tough to grade so im looking for feedback if you climb it. Most of the climbing is 5.11ish but the blank crux kicks it up a notch for sure.
Sections down low are wet much of the year but it was wet when i did it and it didn't add to the difficulty.
youtube.com/watch?v=US3vpyy…
It's now the farthest right route at the crag. Stick clip the first bolt and start by climbing up and hand traversing a ledge from left to right. Get a little rest on a knee-bar and/or a jug, clip a bolt above and continue to the right. A section of interesting technical climbing with cool holds (look for the undercling) finished your traverse and drops you on a ledge for a good rest before the crux. Climb up the smooth face on micro crimps past a couple bolts until the crimps pretty much end. Here is the crux, i dynoed to the ledge above but static moves could be done (at a harder grade perhaps). This section might be harder for shorter and or less dynamic climbers Once your hands are on the ledge do a perplexing mantel move and gain the sweet finish hold to the right of the anchor.
This one was tough to grade so im looking for feedback if you climb it. Most of the climbing is 5.11ish but the blank crux kicks it up a notch for sure.
Sections down low are wet much of the year but it was wet when i did it and it didn't add to the difficulty.
youtube.com/watch?v=US3vpyy…
13 Comments