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Space...Madness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 3/8/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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At the crux

Description 

I'll try not to go off too much but lets just say i REALLY like this route. It's amazingly entertaining and varried. By far my favorite route I've developed. Ok I'll stop now and tell you about the climb.

It's now the farthest right route at the crag. Stick clip the first bolt and start by climbing up and hand traversing a ledge from left to right. Get a little rest on a knee-bar and/or a jug, clip a bolt above and continue to the right. A section of interesting technical climbing with cool holds (look for the undercling) finished your traverse and drops you on a ledge for a good rest before the crux. Climb up the smooth face on micro crimps past a couple bolts until the crimps pretty much end. Here is the crux, i dynoed to the ledge above but static moves could be done (at a harder grade perhaps). This section might be harder for shorter and or less dynamic climbers Once your hands are on the ledge do a perplexing mantel move and gain the sweet finish hold to the right of the anchor.

This one was tough to grade so im looking for feedback if you climb it. Most of the climbing is 5.11ish but the blank crux kicks it up a notch for sure.
Sections down low are wet much of the year but it was wet when i did it and it didn't add to the difficulty.


Location 

The far right end of the crag. look for the pretty, blank looking face with bolts.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2 ring bolt anchor.
i need to fix the 3rd bolt (i will soon).


Photos of Space...Madness Slideshow Add Photo
otey setting up for the crux move (we both dyno to...
otey setting up for the crux move (we both dyno to...
Going Big
Going Big
im standing on the halfway ledge on the first asce...
BETA PHOTO: im standing on the halfway ledge on the first asce...
this mantel is the last move and though not as har...
this mantel is the last move and though not as har...
Victory
Victory
Fall '12
Fall '12
Going small
Going small

Comments on Space...Madness Add Comment
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By twellman
Mar 23, 2010

Nice addition, Lee. I've looked at those ledges a few times while at Starship and thought there might be some good climbing in there. I'll definitely give it a spin next time I'm out there and let you know what I think.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 24, 2010

Thanks, cant wait to hear how it treats you...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 4, 2010

lil video of this fun line... check it


By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Sep 25, 2010

I got on this on yesterday! WICKED FUN! once on the standing ledge the crimps are small but good and its just fun move after fun move! plus the dyno seems so much bigger when you actually stick it. the last moves with the gaston are super techy and a blast.. this route has it all in my opinion!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2011

people really should climb this thing... just sayin'
By twellman
Aug 28, 2011

Finally tried this route the other day, and it was quite fun. There is some chossy rock between the first and second bolts, but it will probably clean up nice with more traffic. The dyno and moves after it are quite hard! Overall, a nice variety of techniques... I used at least one heel-hook, kneebar, undercling, mantle, (attempted) dyno, and tricky gaston!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 3, 2011

really glad you got on it! great review, i love the variety of techniques...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I sat on the ledge after the first bolt for 5 minutes before figuring out how to move out right (didn't know any beta, hadn't seen the video in a long time). The rest ledge was very much welcomed. I found that the crimpy face was straight forward. Well... up until the dyno to the lip. Gained the crimps to clip the 2nd draw on the face and thought, these crimps aren't that bad. THE DYNO IS HARD. I found some heinous micro crimps but to static that move would be REALLY hard. At the final short ledge, I heel hooked while moving out right to the edge and the hand traversed the top back towards the anchors. Ooops. I can't wait to try it the real way next time. Fun route.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 24, 2012

:) good review :)
By Tyson Miller
From: Lebanon, NH
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Stick clip the first bolt. Rock is not very solid around the first bolt, pulled some off today. Fun Route.