Space  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  mike schlauch on Jun 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The view from the belay at the base of Wide Countr...

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Description 

Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of Wide Country and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up Saturnalia. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.

Location 

Approach via Wide Country or the Bastille Crack. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of Wide Country's third pitch. Head up Wide Country for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on Wide Country and head out onto the face toward a bolt on Hairstyles. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross Outer Space and continue toward Saturnalia. Place a good 3" cam then head up Saturnalia. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses Hairstyles.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of Wide Country's third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on Hairstyles as you cross that route.