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The view from the belay at the base of Wide Countr...
Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of Wide Country
and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up Saturnalia
. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.
Approach via Wide Country
or the Bastille Crack
. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of Wide Country's
third pitch. Head up Wide Country
for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on Wide Country
and head out onto the face toward a bolt on Hairstyles
. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross Outer Space
and continue toward Saturnalia
. Place a good 3" cam then head up Saturnalia
. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses Hairstyles
Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of Wide Country's
third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on Hairstyles
as you cross that route.
From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 1, 2012
Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe....
By Chris Archer
Jun 1, 2012
Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition.
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Jun 5, 2012
That's fast action! Chip was pointing that route out to me, and it seemed almost like the next day you guys did it. Ya Big Studs!