Space Tower is not the most obvious of towers; nor the tallest; nor is it especially well known (in fact, it may not even qualify as a tower). It is simply an excellent summit with a fun route and adventurous climbing. The tower, located shortly before Kane Creek Valley at the Ice Cream Parlor area, is a detached pillar. Locate it across the canyon from the the Ice Cream Parlor Crack and A Good Day to Die. Park at the little campground, and find primitive paths across the wash that lead north west up to an old road. Follow the road a bit, but then angle up towards the bottom right of the east side of the tower. The base of the route is the right side of the tower.
Driving time from Moab is approximately 15 minutes. To access Space Tower, turn off Highway 191 in Moab near McDonald's on Kane Creek Drive. Follow Kane Creek Drive down the Colorado River canyon (don't miss the left angled turn). The road will head away from the Colorado River and meander up Kane Springs Canyon... go up, follow switchbacks down, pass the spring, drive through a dry wash (dry most of the time) and finally you'll reach the Ice Cream Parlor area. If the canyon opens up to a wide valley, go back to the narrow canyon because you passed it.
This route is located directly across canyon from the one-pitch stuff at Ice Cream Parlor. It is on Space Tower, which is separated from the main cliff by a large chimney that faces NE. The tower appears to touch the canyon wall at the top (it is actually separated by about an inch). Hallow Souls involves wild full body stemming inside the chimney. Begin by climbing 40 feet of easy choss to gain the clean crack system inside the chimney, on the main cliff. One can belay just inside the chim...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
This is a really fun route - wild stemming!! Its also cool in that since your placing gear on both walls with (hopefully) long slings, when your looking down the rope is dangling in space 3 feet from either wall!
I for one did not enjoy this route. After the crack runs out, you have about 20 feet to the bolt and a fall would be sure bone breaker(head, neck, back, etc.) The first ascent was done without the bolt and made a good 40 foot runout. Be aware of the stemming when you traverse on the finger crack. If you don't, it goes free at about 5.11-5.11+. I learned that one the hard way!
Hmmm.. I remember a traverse right to the bolt, protected by several small cams just before the crack died out. It seemed at the time that if the cams held, the fall would be safe, but the rock had lost its varnish and become very soft by that point, so I didn't trust them. Still, the hardest part seemed to me to be above the bolt, and that was also scary.
That aside, I loved "Hallow Souls" (the actual route name). The climbing is totally wild, mostly full-body stemming, and I haven't done anything else like it.
This is a fun route, but the 5.9 grade is a bit deceiving. A 5.9 leader should not try and take this on as a fall will likely have you hitting either the tower or the main wall. There is a good anchor and new chains on top.
11/18/12. continuing from above. when i got home with the mess of old worn and torn papers stuffed into a pill bottle; i didn't know what to do with it, so it sat on a shelf and got forgotten about. by chance, my neighbor invited me to play the didgeridoo at the moab regional hospital, long term care center. there i met tom gilje (fa- space tower). for those that don't know, tom was in a mt bike accident that left him in a bad way. the didge hit home with tom and he really took off with it. the old papers still forgotten about. i just found them the other day and got an idea. we pressed them out and put them into clear plastic. we plan on giving them to tom. any climbers that want to shoot tom a what up and thanks for a great climb can do so via the canyon lands care center @ 390 w williams way, moab, utah, 84532. (435-719-4400) any didge people that want to donate anything aboriginal: well, i know he would flip out!!!! thanks
By John Braun From: Hendersonville, NC Apr 21, 2013
Paul, mad props for cleaning up the register. I think someone should make a copy of that original pink note and put it back up there. I, for one, got quite a kick out of reading that note on the summit and scrambling over and checking out "the inch." Say hey to Tom for me, I hung out with him a bit last year.