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Sunset Buttress
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Space Tourist S 

Space Tourist 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: A hybrid of existing routes, linked and recorded in this state in 2004 by M. Crocker and J. Harwood
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Jun 27, 2013

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Description 

An amenable way of sampling the rock and exposure of Sunset Buttress. The first pitch is the access route for the big routes on the buttress proper. Start directly below the huge overhang on Paradise Lost and follow a line of bolts through a narrow clearing in the ivy.

P1, 5.10b, 45m
Climb up to a tricky crux through a bulge. Continue up easy ground past an optional belay, to the right-most bolted anchor. 11 bolts.

P2, 5.11a, 15m
A short pitch to gain the Utopia terrace. Head up and right from the belay to a short groove with bolts on the left wall (not the big chimney/groove of Utopia to the right). Awkward moves up this gain a final bolt at the top, then a tricky step right gains the two-bolt belay on the terrace. Consider clipping the first bolt of "Sunsations" to protect your second on the last moves. 5 bolts

P3, 5.11a, 30m
Proceed directly up from the belay to gain a corner, which is climbed direct and making use of the arete on the right to it's top. This is where the spacewalk starts! Make technical moves left from the top of corner into immediate exposure and continue up the wall past a bolt and pitons to the top. Anchor to the tree, turn around and admire the view. 9 bolts, 5 pitons.

Descent is by abseil, possible with a single 60m rope. The first abseil gets you to back to the terrace. The second goes 20m down the corner crack of Utopia to a three-bolt anchor on the left. A final 25m gets back to the path at the bottom.

Location 

Start on the narrow ledge girdling the bottom of the buttress, directly below the huge overhang on Paradise Lost. The first line of bolts left of the Utopia corner.

Protection 

Bolted up to the top 10m or so of pitch 3, which has an assortment of pitons. 15 quickdraws is sufficient. Bolted anchors at the top of the first two pitches, chain and maillon on a tree at the top.


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