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Space Sluts 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Sep 28, 2011

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Space Sluts 12a

Description 

A short jug haul to a dope crack. Really nice finger locks to a perfect hand jam rest, then prepare to do battle with the bouldery crux. The last fifteen feet are probably solid v3/4. A very rad climb.

Location 

Shares the first three bolts with Crank Whore, then follows the crack for another two bolts and eventually diagonals back right to the Crank Whore anchor.

Protection 

8 or 9 bolts


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By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CONDITION REPORT 
Space Sluts has a new anchor!

The larger than life chain that hung from the large pine tree at the cliffs edge has not only been an eye sore, but has caused a cumulation of damage to the tree and the limestone rock on the cliffs edge. It was removed after discussion with the original installer and after finding evidence of rusting and corrosion causing metal fatigue and brittleness.

The new anchor consists of 2- 3/8" X 3.5" Powers 5 piece bolts with Fixe hangers and 3/8" Maillons quick links, plated chain with a steel locking caribiner and spring shut to allow for safe lower-offs

This route now has a seperate anchor from Crank Whore, however both routes can continue to use this anchor for a top rope or to access Crank Whore's new anchors with some creativity.
By Muscrat
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Great well protected line. Harder for we tall folk, a little scrunchy footwork at the top. Fun!
By CrimperE6
From: ca
Nov 2, 2014

good 7a/+
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