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Routes in Lower Hawksbill
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Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Haiku T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Jeep's Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jig Zag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Kidsmoke T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Senior Moment T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richie Hum, Nathan Brown |
| Page Views: | 1,001 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 1, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
This is a fun new hard route that has excellent rock but quite a bit of traversing. Make sure the second is up to the climbing. It was originally started in the early 2000's with another friend but abandoned after running into a blank section. The route was recently revisited, rerouted via traverse, and finished.
P-1
It's best to stick clip the first bolt due to a boulder problem start and a rocky landing. Bouldery climbing gets you to bolt 2 under the roof (technical crux). Step down and left to handrail and traverse left, then back up to a blue TCU placement under roof. Continue along the pumpy traverse (redpoint crux) past a bolt and small cams to a semi-rest (small ledge) at the base of a right-facing corner. Small/med cam protects the corner up to a bolt. From the bolt move up and onto the right end of the Solace ledge and belay at bolts.
P-2
Step back right and follow the seam past gear to a ledge below the bulge. Climb left through the roof/bulge and up to the top (immediate right side of large rock ledge that juts out). Rap from Solace to the left.
P-1
It's best to stick clip the first bolt due to a boulder problem start and a rocky landing. Bouldery climbing gets you to bolt 2 under the roof (technical crux). Step down and left to handrail and traverse left, then back up to a blue TCU placement under roof. Continue along the pumpy traverse (redpoint crux) past a bolt and small cams to a semi-rest (small ledge) at the base of a right-facing corner. Small/med cam protects the corner up to a bolt. From the bolt move up and onto the right end of the Solace ledge and belay at bolts.
P-2
Step back right and follow the seam past gear to a ledge below the bulge. Climb left through the roof/bulge and up to the top (immediate right side of large rock ledge that juts out). Rap from Solace to the left.
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