|Milky Way Wall
Perhaps the best line on the whole wall!
Steep climbing on the right side of a little tree. The second bolt is a bit hard to clip. It's a good idea to pre-hang this draw (easy when lowering off the routes to either side). If you do, it will make the start feel much easier. Small crimps, a somewhat hidden slopey pinch and some pockets lead to a really good slab. After you clip bolt #4, make a leftward shuffle (using a pocket) to a HUGE (I mean humongous!) hold and relief.
7 bolts and chains
Reaching for a small two finger pocket just below ...
BETA PHOTO: Grabbing the neat sloper pinch at the second bolt.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 12, 2008
Check out that awesome black and orange limestone at the start! Great line on stellar rock! Long reaches to small crimps and pockets characterizes the lower half of the route, while the upper half is easy, juggy slab climbing.
|By Clay Allred|
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008
Really enjoyed this route the second time. My onsight was blown by going left at the first bolt, but I nailed it my second go. Just stay right :)
From: Salt lake city, ut
Oct 1, 2011
Different strokes for different folks but I didn't love this route or Milky Way. For some reason I really prefer the routes at Tatooine. Both of these seemed really sharp and crimpy.