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First I've got to say I only climbed the first 80' or so, I belayed and ended up rapping off from under the roof. This thing is action-packed. The first 35' or so is a tenuous seam that is quite delicate and takes thin gear. This is listed as 5.9 in the book, harder in my opinion. Gain a ledge, clip an old bolt, continue up into a slanting hand crack. Have fun switching from jams to lieback when it opens up. I belayed under the roof, but the route continues up past the roof, through another seam, eventually to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 rope rappel from that point, 1 rope gets down from under the roof.
One of the better single pitches of granite I've done.
Two crack systems angle up the North facing wall on Morrell Wall in an upside down V, almost converging below a small roof with a rappel rope slung in it. Space Cadets is the left hand crack. The right hand crack is listed as 5.7.
I placed small TCUs and nuts in the seam, gear up to #3 camalot for the rest.
BETA PHOTO: Upper half of SC on the left, Beat Feet on the rig...
First pitch is Stellar, but unfortunately haven't ...
From: Mesa AZ
Nov 21, 2007
The seam on the beginning is very thin, use 00 and 0's in the seam and easy footwork as you bring your body up, easier as you go up to the roof.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
This route is effing awesome. But don't be a space cadet when you lead this, especially on the second pitch--holy dangerous runout, Batman! Steep slab protected by two manky bolts and no other options for pro once you're on this section; a lead fall could result in some bad boo-boos through there. Be solid at the 5.10 grade. Very, very excellent.
(Note: I said second pitch because this was originally listed as two and because that is the way my partner and I did it in order to hear each other on a very windy day.)
Jan 11, 2010
John Ficker and I (Glen Dickinson) did this route after years of me bugging him. The first pitch (it was originally done as two pitches) took a lot of cleaning of tiny flakes. I used 3 number one friends and placed a bolt to belay John up. John placed only two nuts about 30 feet up the disconnected rock above. There is a short vertical seem where John got in one tiny RP. From there he lead out about 40 feet to the only place he could stop and drill from a stance. I placed a second bolt on my second.
John and I were very happy this long looked at line went in one push. It was the last thing we did that day. The next day John called me and asked if I had seen his binoculars. I asked him if he had my new Robbins Varape climbing shoes. We hiked back up that afternoon and found that in our excitement we had just walked off leaving crucial equipment behind. Hence the name "Space Cadets."
The ncxt time we did the route John to lead and did the entire thing in one nice pitch. It became a single pitch route but is is safer and more fun to split it in two. The second half is water polished excellent granite. The bolts may be old but to my knowledge no one has ever fallen on either of them. I know I have not! Glen Dickinson
Jan 17, 2011
Thanx GHD , aced this lead again since my last time 2006,
Don't mess with this lead, it goes as is " R" !
Lead the second pitch in good style avoiding a head game!
this time, two raps with a 70m. 01/17/2011 Chris M w/ Joe J
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 16, 2012
Have always hesitated on this one b/c of the bad bolts, but it turns out the bolts don't really matter as the climbing above the last bolt, truly runout, is mellow and the first bolt is useless as there's plenty of good gear before and after it. Will replace these awful old things next time I'm out. This is a super route that should see more traffic. Even better than Beat Feet!
|By Steve Skelton|
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
Dec 28, 2012
Fantastic climbing on stellar rock, but a death route! There is one rusty old bolt to protect a potential 60 foot whipper. The leader may as well untie after leaving the protection of the upper seam. All due respect to the original ascensionists for their bold ground-up style. I think the route would be much more popular if it was made safer by, at the very least placing a new bolt by the old one.
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 28, 2012
I am aware of a local guy who is planning on replacing that bolt. I am pretty sure he plans to remove the old bolt and re use the hole.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 2, 2013
Yes, that "local guy" replaced the bolt a couple days ago with the help and encouragement of a couple other funny guys. Also replaced the scary looking bolt on the 11b route to the right of "Beat Feat", "Jungle Gym", which isn't posted on MP yet due to its stellar popularity [sic]. Will say that the bolt was far more bomber than we would've guessed. The lower bolt was left in place as there is bomber natural gear above and below and the bolt isn't really needed. Hope this makes this awesome climb more popular.
By the way, would recommend doing in one pitch and we chose not to put hangers in at the midway point for Beat Feet given how nicely they both go in 1 pitch.
|By Hugo Almanza|
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b R
Amazing route! Definitely tests your comfort level with run outs.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R
First 20' is the crux. I protected it with small brass offsets and 0.1 X4. Relatively easy after that but the runout is over kinda scary 5.8 slab