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Space Boyz 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 11 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray - 1994
Page Views: 12,054
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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P1: 5.8
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.9
P5: 5.10
P6: 5.10d
P7: 5.10
P8: 5.9
P9: 5.10
P10: 5.9
P11: 5.9

This classic route was bolted entirely on weekends (52 of them!) by a pair of South-Texan climbers. Watchout for the loose rock on pitches 9-11, especially when descending. I have witnessed huge rocks dislodged from there by climbers yarding on their stuck ropes. For that same reason I wouldn't recommend climbing below another party. A 60 meter rope to rap works fine. You may wish to consider using a rope-bag or flaking your rope over your shoulders when descending in windy conditions. The sixth pitch is awesome!


Starts behind and right of the pavillion and finishes atop a spire/gendarme.


Bolts with anchors.

Photos of Space Boyz Slideshow Add Photo
Andy in the crux changing corners pitch. This is w...
Andy in the crux changing corners pitch. This is w...
Space Boyz
Space Boyz
Crux pitch (10d) of Space Boyz
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch (10d) of Space Boyz
The Base of Space Boyz
The Base of Space Boyz
Panoramic of the route.
Panoramic of the route.
Kati Simmons climbs the crux pitch as Nathan Scher...
Kati Simmons climbs the crux pitch as Nathan Scher...

Comments on Space Boyz Add Comment
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By MikeZ
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2011

I'm planning on climbing this route in the next few months. Is there a certain day of the week or month that this climb will be more likely to be free of people? I've just heard stories of how this climb is always packed. Also, how is the climb lately, any recent reports? I plan on linking a few pitches as the lamountainers beta page suggests, should I be taking 24 quickdraws with me?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 12, 2011

This route has a party on it basically every day during the season. In the 18 days or whatever I was at the potrero there was always at least one party on it. Best bet, is to get there early in the morning. If there's someone ahead of you, you can do another long multi like yankee clipper, black cat bone, or head over to mota and do snott girlz or Pancho Villa rides again. Alternatively, if you are fast, you could be the late shift, and head up early afternoon, after whoever got up first starts rapping. I don't think climbing under another party in the potrero is a good idea genarlly because there is so much loose choss, but there is a traverse up high, so you've got some protection.

I didn't do this particular route because there was a party on it every day, but I would recommend 25 quicks, a helmet and a 70m for anyone climbing in the potrero.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 25, 2011

We did this route a year ago over a N. American spring break, and we were the only one on it.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

Fun climb. Crux pitch is thoughtful.
By Mark Grundon
Oct 28, 2014

For a free online topo visit:
Free Space Boyz Topo
By Lotte
From: Amsterdam
Feb 24, 2015

20 quick draws and a 60m were enough to link 1&2, and 4&5 and 8&9.
The sun hit the rock (in Feb) around 11/12, and some parts of it were in the shade from 3PM.
Plan your climb accordingly.
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