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This classic route was bolted entirely on weekends (52 of them!) by a pair of South-Texan climbers. Watchout for the loose rock on pitches 9-11, especially when descending. I have witnessed huge rocks dislodged from there by climbers yarding on their stuck ropes. For that same reason I wouldn't recommend climbing below another party. A 60 meter rope to rap works fine. You may wish to consider using a rope-bag or flaking your rope over your shoulders when descending in windy conditions. The sixth pitch is awesome!
Starts behind and right of the pavillion and finishes atop a spire/gendarme.
Bolts with anchors.
The Base of Space Boyz
Panoramic of the route.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2011
I'm planning on climbing this route in the next few months. Is there a certain day of the week or month that this climb will be more likely to be free of people? I've just heard stories of how this climb is always packed. Also, how is the climb lately, any recent reports? I plan on linking a few pitches as the lamountainers beta page suggests, should I be taking 24 quickdraws with me?
From: Oakland CA
Feb 12, 2011
This route has a party on it basically every day during the season. In the 18 days or whatever I was at the potrero there was always at least one party on it. Best bet, is to get there early in the morning. If there's someone ahead of you, you can do another long multi like yankee clipper, black cat bone, or head over to mota and do snott girlz or Pancho Villa rides again. Alternatively, if you are fast, you could be the late shift, and head up early afternoon, after whoever got up first starts rapping. I don't think climbing under another party in the potrero is a good idea genarlly because there is so much loose choss, but there is a traverse up high, so you've got some protection.
I didn't do this particular route because there was a party on it every day, but I would recommend 25 quicks, a helmet and a 70m for anyone climbing in the potrero.
|By Lee Frazer|
Mar 25, 2011
We did this route a year ago over a N. American spring break, and we were the only one on it.
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011
Fun climb. Crux pitch is thoughtful.