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|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 220'|
|FA: ||Charles Vernon; Kurt Johnson, 5/22/05|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Charles Vernon on May 22, 2005|
Charles Vernon on the crux headwall during the fir...
This is a fun route up the SW arete of the Colossus. Approach as for Colossus Crack, and hike to the rather unassuming left-hand side of the of the cliff (around the corner left from the steep, green wall with Colossus Crack). "SW Prow" starts up a slab and picks up a 5.8 seam just right of the prow (00 tcu placment). Continue to a ramp below a steep arete, and climb a splitter finger crack (crux) about 5' right of the arete (to the right is a prominent corner with no crack in the back). Higher, the crack ends, so step left and use both sides of the arete for a few fun, exciting moves to reach a ledge where one can belay, or possibly stretch the rope to the top.
Note: from the ground, several seams are visible to the right of the arete, and for the most part, they are indeed unprotectable seams, but when you reach the ramp, it becomes apparent that the particular crack described above takes perfect nut placements and thin finger jams.
standard rack; a 00 tcu is helpful and nothing larger than a #2 friend is required
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