This is the long gully of sometimes-rotten rock that bounds the left side of the slabby south face. Gain the gully, and climb its bed, taking the right fork when it splits. Partway up, exit it via a stiff 5.8 pitch on crumbly rock, then finish the climb immediately right of the gully. There are 9 5th class pitches plus considerable scrambling.
Approach as per Speedway.
Helmets mandatory. In early season this route seeps.
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