Southwest Face (Alvera)
||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Alvera, Pompanin, Illing, Appolonio June 19, 1945|
|Season: ||summer, early fall|
|Page Views: ||116|
|Submitted By: ||Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 22, 2013|
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The first two pitches are pretty forgettable, but the last five pitches, off the big ledge, are worth the approach. The crux is probably the fourth pitch, Alvera Traverse. Don't forget to sign the register can in the hole at the end of the pitch.
The last pitch is pretty loose. Try not to knock anything down on the climbers below and get a solid belay on top.
The start of the route and it's first two pitches are pretty nondescript and can be done just about anywhere(line of least resistence).
The key is finding the start of the third pitch which seems to be a lot more left on the big ledge than one thinks. Once you find the correct spot, the description of the subsequent pitch in the Kohler/Memmel guidebook is spot on. Judging from all the bail gear a lot of people look for the third pitch too far right of the proper line.
For the descent, head north toward the east edge of the formation and find a Via Ferrata which leads down through the cliff band to the bottom of the formation.
Standard Dolomite rack. Stoppers and Cams up to about 3". Long slings and free biners are helpful.