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Grand View Spire
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Southwest Defile Route T 

Southwest Defile Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: John Auld, John Kuglin, Gary Ziegley, 1961.
Page Views: 1,944
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Nov 10, 2001

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The outstanding tyrolean traverse between Grand Vi...

Description 

This is an adventurous and interesting route that has seen very few ascents -- the original summit register is still there after 40 years. Only a handful of ascents had been made until the '90s, and now it seems only about 20-30 (at least by who signed the register). Anyway, if you do plan on climbing this route, a new register is in order, since the old one has nearly fallen apart.

Find the route per the description on the rock page. This route can be climbed in 5 pitches, but the last two-three are easy to get to and of better quality. Fix a rope on two trees near the edge of the rim, just above the notch to the spire below. A 50m rope will reach all the way to the notch bottom.

P1: Start on the left side of the notch up an easy ramp to a small crack. Look for two old bolts (relics of the FA I'm guessing) and a bolt with a missing hanger. This section can be easily aided or free climbed at 5.9, but you wouldn't want to fall on these bolts--they've really seen their better days. Move up to the top of a small block under a large, R-facing dihedral. Aid up this thin crack using the micro cams, TCUs, and small stoppers (down to #2). This goes clean thanks to the old pin scars, but the rock is a little soft. After aiding up the corner, it is not too bad to free-climb the rest of the pitch at about 5.8, but it is a little spicy since the rock is a little crumbly in spots. Belay on top of a pedestal where there are two drilled angles for protection.

P2: Move up the ramp to a large flake using some large stoppers and med-lrg Friends for pro. Clip an old drilled angle, then move around the corner to the right. Belay at the base of a short offwidth crack.

P3: Tackle the nice OW (5.8) and use a large piece like a #5 Camalot or similar. If you don't have one, a medium stopper and a small Alien can be used in a thin seam on the left. Top out and enjoy the view!

Descent: There are two possibilities for making it back to the canyon rim. 1: Rap back to the notch with TWO 50m ropes, then jug back up your fixed line 150ft. The anchor on top is two drilled angles and some old webbing--bring a knife and a new piece of cord with you to replace some old stuff and inspire a little more confidence. 2: From the start of the route, attach your fixed line from the canyon rim to yourself and bring it up to the summit. A tyrolian can be set up here with this line and your additional lead line. We did not do this method, but on second thought, it seems like more fun and less work than bringing a 3rd rope and jugging back up 150ft. One other thing about the tyrolean logistics is the 50m fixed line will not reach the start of the route, so you'll have to attach it on the lead line and pull it up when you're about 1/2 way up the pitch.

Protection 

Some Aliens or small TCUs, RPs, Friends #0.5-2, 4, and a #5 Camalot or similar if you have one. At least two 50m ropes are required--three if you don't tyrolean back across.


Photos of Southwest Defile Route Slideshow Add Photo
The first page of the summit register--amazing it ...
The first page of the summit register--amazing it ...
Dan Mottinger moving up the flake on P2--get some ...
Dan Mottinger moving up the flake on P2--get some ...
Ben grunting up the OW.
Ben grunting up the OW.
Joy climbing the first pitch of Southwest Defile R...
Joy climbing the first pitch of Southwest Defile R...
Ben rapping off the overhanging face.
Ben rapping off the overhanging face.
Ben Mottinger starting to aid up the steep dihedra...
Ben Mottinger starting to aid up the steep dihedra...
Ben jugging back up to the rim.
Ben jugging back up to the rim.
Another page of the original summit register.  Thi...
Another page of the original summit register. Thi...
The final pitch on the Southwest Defile Route on G...
The final pitch on the Southwest Defile Route on G...
The second pitch of the Southwest Defile Route on ...
The second pitch of the Southwest Defile Route on ...
The tyrolean between Grand View Spire and the rim,...
The tyrolean between Grand View Spire and the rim,...
Ben Kiessel cruising the final offwidth.  Must be ...
Ben Kiessel cruising the final offwidth. Must be ...

Comments on Southwest Defile Route Add Comment
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By Troy from Tooele
Feb 11, 2003

Fun route Follow Mr. Mottingers beta, it's quite correct. Except for the concern over a new register. I took care of that. H.b. offsets would have kicked butt. I tyroleaned out, but wished I would have opted for the less "holloywood" descent. I was by myself, so I had to go back and forth. I don't see how the A0 bolts on the 1st pitch could rate 5.9. It looked much harder than that, with a wafer flake to boot. I would recommend this route to anyone. -tda
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2003

Troy- of course you left the old register on top, right?
By Troy from Tooele
Apr 22, 2003

Of course, I appreciate the history in those things. This one is especially cool, because it's not like Castleton, where it's frustrating to navigate between the graffitti and actual history.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2003

Bummer, I did this climb with Bill Wright some years ago and didn't see the register. I remember the second pitch is somewhat loose. Also, the OW on pitch 3 looked harder than 5.8 - this can be aided if you're feeling weak.

This is better than a 1 star route!
By MixMaster
Apr 14, 2005

Southwest Defile goes free now. This one is good for a quickie if you have the jugs and a rope to fix. Avoid the three aid bolts and traverse right out of the notch for forty feet (5.7s) to the base of a nice, overhanging, thin-hands corner. Belay here. Fire up this thirty-forty foot section into an easy choss band and on to the crux, which is very thin and loose but pulls up through an nice splitter next to a corner. Pin scars for pro, so bring the HB offsets. Belay at the anchors and then off around the corner (looks much worse than it really is). Good for the Momument but not on par with Sundial or the Medicne Man.
By Frosty Weller
From: Colorado
Mar 19, 2007

Excellent solo on clean aid 03/17/07. Careful of those bolts on pitch 1! It would be wacky to try and free past these... even if it was only 5.9. And 5.8 for the last pitch?! Glad I had the #5 Camalot. Whoever does this tower next, please bring a register book and some pencils/pens. The summit register ammo box is great. But the 1 pencil and 1 pen are fried and there are only a couple of blank sheets of paper as the register. Note that the original register is still there but VERY VERY fragile. Be careful with it. Very historic with some great names... It needs to be put into it's own zip lock for preservation and left in place.
By Vic
Mar 22, 2012

These bolts are definitely not that inspiring, but they're a pretty cool relic of the original ascent... 50+ year old star dryvins with homemade angle iron hangers. Perhaps someone could replace the rivet/hangerless bolt below the two star dryvins with a solid bolt and leave the others in place for character. Just a thought. This is a cool route that's definitely worth doing, although not quite as good (or hard) as its neighboring route Relics. Also, #5 cam = old #5.