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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Perfect Storm S 
Balanced Effect S 
Call of the Wild S 
Southwest Chimney T,S 
Thrill of Krell, The S 
White Fang S 

Southwest Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Chris Doll on Jul 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route can probably be done in one pitch, but there would be too much rope drag. The first pitch is a low grade friction slap to some chains, then its up into a wide off width chimney with 3 bolts. The chains are at the top of the chimney, or you can scramble up a bit further to another set of chains that can be rapeled off.

Location 

The obvious large crack that runs up the southwest corner of the Big Rock

Protection 

5 bolts on the bottom section with rapel rings and an anchor station. 3 bolts in the chimney with your choice of chains on the chimney section.


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By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My daughter and I did this route as one long pitch last weekend (maybe 160'). I skipped a few bolts and used longer slings on a couple to reduce rope drag, but it was fun with no real drag. The 2nd long pitch (5.1 and maybe 180') to the top was the most fun though, it needed a couple of cams as well as the lone bolt I found, and the long runouts and wind gave it an alpine feel. I think the main route would benefit from some rebolting to straighten the line some and eliminate unnecessary placements, as the chimney is well worth doing.