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In the trees 
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Southpark 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Justin Brunson on Dec 25, 2010

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Thunderstorm
63° | 39°
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68° | 37°
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Winter closure MORE INFO >>>


Fun Deadpoint on EDS. photo by Dean Lords.

Description 

Southpark is certainly a unique crag. You'll find it on the same road as Heise Rock. This concludes the list of similarities.

Southpark offers no single-digit routes, and nothing harder than 5.12b. Most of the wall overhangs about 6 feet in 90. The stone is broken and sometimes loose, and by all indications will continue to be so until the rapture. This place cannot be treated like a gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Pay attention and communicate with your belayer.

The real essence of Southpark climbing is the overwhelming prevalence of open-handed pinches. Dean Lords says "if you're on a crimp, you're off route".

Climbing here is not as technical as other areas. Your main enemy is the concrete in your forearms, not any specific powerful move. Because of this, it's the greatest place to train endurance and finger strength. It also makes the grades fairly subjective.

Watch out for snakes and falling rock. Do not belay directly under the climber. Do not flake your rope directly under the climber unless you like core shots. Bring your stick clip and have a great time.

For more info visit www.seiclimbing.com

The area guidebook is Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. Southpark is not included in the current edition but you should buy it anyways. Seriously.


Getting There 

Follow directions to Heise Rock. Continue east past Heise a little less than a mile until you reach a dirt road on the right. Follow this road about 4 miles.
You'll see a large sign saying "Wolf Flats". The wall is .8 miles past this sign.
You can park in the little turnout directly across from the wall, or in the dirt "lot" about 100 yards past.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southpark:
Smug Alert   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Who Killed Kenny   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Chef's Meatballs   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   In the trees
Scuzzlebutt   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   In the trees
Cartman   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Big Gay Al   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Mr Hankey   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   In the trees
Make Love Not Warcraft   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Hippy Digger   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Southpark

Featured Route For Southpark
Fun Deadpoint on EDS. photo by Dean Lords.

EDS 5.13a  ID : Southpark : In the trees
Powerful, bouldery route that stay on ya til the chains. Super fun!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Comments on Southpark Add Comment
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By scott briley
13 mins ago

Steep and fun "Masterpiece" in the trees, and a death zone out of the trees.