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South Park 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Justin Brunson on Dec 25, 2010

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crux of In Between Days

Description 

South Park is certainly a unique crag. You'll find it on the same road as Heise Rock. This concludes the list of similarities.

South Park offers no single-digit routes, and most lines go easier than 12c. Most of the wall overhangs about 6 feet in 90. The stone is broken and sometimes loose, and by all indications will continue to be so until the rapture. This place cannot be treated like a gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Pay attention and communicate with your belayer.

The real essence of South Park climbing is the overwhelming prevalence of open-handed pinches. Climbing here tends to be pumpy more than technical. Think fitness over bouldery cruxes.

Watch out for snakes and falling rock. Do not belay directly under the climber. Do not flake your rope directly under the climber unless you like core shots. Bring your stick clip and have a great time.

For more info visit www.seiclimbing.com

The area guidebook is Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. Southpark is not included in the current edition but you should buy it anyways. Seriously.


Getting There 

Follow directions to Heise Rock. Continue east past Heise a little less than a mile until you reach a dirt road on the right. Follow this road about 4 miles.
You'll see a large sign saying "Wolf Flats". The wall is .8 miles past this sign.
You can park in the little turnout directly across from the wall, or in the dirt "lot" about 100 yards past.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Park:
Smug Alert   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Chef's Meatballs   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   In the trees
Who Killed Kenny   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Scuzzlebutt   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   In the trees
Cartman   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Big Gay Al   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Mr Hankey   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   In the trees
Temptation   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   In the trees
Make Love Not Warcraft   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
Drive-by Trucker   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   In the trees
Hippy Digger   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Main Wall
In Between Days   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   In the trees
EDS   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   In the trees
Browse More Classics in South Park

Featured Route For South Park
Stephen E. high stepping midroute.

Make Love Not Warcraft 5.12b  ID : South Park : Main Wall
If you ask Sam Perkins, this is the most technically challenging route at the crag. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Comments on South Park Add Comment
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By Derrick
Jun 9, 2013

Please read this note by Dean Lords, the area developer and one who has worked hard at getting access to these great crags.

  • **IMPORTANT NOTE
Please do not park on the road below Pointless or across from South Park. The BLM is heavily monitoring our usage at these crags as they plan to impliment a management policy for rock climbing in the South Fork Corridor.

The BLM folks do not want us parking on the road or creating new parking places by cutting down or diving over living things. Please, please, please understand that negative actions in the BLM's eyes WILL result in area closures.

The new fee at Heise will increase the user traffic at other neaby areas. Do your part to not create concerns for those land management agencies who are paying attention to what happens at the local crags.