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Zion Beta

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By Luke Malatesta
From Moab Utah
Aug 8, 2008

Does anyone have any recent beta/topo/photos on Days of No Future or G-Money??? (other than what is in the McAfee book)..

Thanks,
Luke

By patrick wild
Aug 9, 2008
grappler

Hi Luke,

Sorry I don't have current beta, but did 'Days' about 15 years ago. I remember it as steep, very soft ~as in the rock, not the grade~ and committing. Only six pitches and Grade V/VI; I remember each pitch as being rather engaging.

p1. KBs & hooks
p2. thin corner
p3. see below (traverse expanding flake)
p4. wide/awkward to mandatory free climbing
p.5 funky!
p6. funky!


Bigwalls.net cites this route as example A3+:
"Pitch 3 of "Days of No Future" on Angel's Landing in Zion, the crux being 50 feet of birdbeaks and tied-off blades in soft sandstone followed by a blind, marginal Friend placement in loose rock which was hard to test properly, all this above a ledge."
Rack: 15 KB's (mostly long), 12 LA's (mostly long), 4 each 1/2", 5/8" pitons, 3 each 3/4" pitons, 2 to 3 each 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2" pitons, hooks, stoppers, and Friends to #7.
Excellent soft rock route up the center of Scout's Landing, overhangs most of the way. 10 bolts required for the first ascent.


chossmonkey.com says:
"- Days of No Future VI 5.9 A2 (orA3+ according to Middendorf's web site) - FA: John Middendorf and Barry Ward, May 23-25, 1991. rumor that it goes clean?"


Also from chossmonkey.com, "Zion Rock by Alex McAfee - a horrible guide for the most part. Many topos are incomplete are flat out wrong, often fails to include approach information, and you're probably best in not even referring to this guide (and definitely save yourself money by not buying it)."

That's all I could find with a quick net search, I'm sure you've seen all that already.

Enjoy, let us know how it goes.

PW

edit: Interesting that chossmonkey gives 5.9 A2 and still gives Grade VI for only six pitches. Maybe that's C2???

By Luke Malatesta
From Moab Utah
Aug 9, 2008

Thanks pat. I was thinking about soloing one of these routes the first week of november. I dont think that they get done much and I probabily would have it to my self, both of which i am into. Anything more current? anybody?.....

By Caleb Padgett
From springdale, utah
Aug 10, 2008

my buddy bird made this really nice topo poster he sells... these guys have climbed all of these things so the info is first or second hand..

www.desertalpine.com

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Aug 11, 2008
Pitch 7

patrick wild wrote:
"Pitch 3 of "Days of No Future" on Angel's Landing in Zion, the crux being 50 feet of birdbeaks and tied-off blades in soft sandstone followed by a blind, marginal Friend placement in loose rock which was hard to test properly, all this above a ledge."


This sounds really scary... I think I'll keep to trade routes


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