Well, here's the deal. Lunar looks sick. However, it seems that lots of small offsets are needed. Between the two of us we have a set of hybrid aliens, a set of DMM offsets, and a set of sucky peenuts. Anyone done this on limited gear?

I think I had a lot of repeats in sizes... lots of the middle stuff.

If you really want to do this route ...

I could lend you some DMM and HB offsets on the basis that if you drop them you will have to replace them. You're also have to pick them up from my place in Littleton... you're in Boulder right! A six pack would go down nice too!

Email me if you're interested.

I'd suggest you pick up a set of the DMM/HB offsets. They're just phenomenal stoppers that go places that nothing else will. Once you get and place them, I think you'll discover that they're worth the price.

--Marc

You'll need two #7 HB's (purple) and 2 #8's (orange) to make the crux pitch C2. I think it would be considerably harder without these pieces.

The smaller HB's (3-6) are useful in the bottom of flared scars, but the trango brassies (much cheaper) also work well in those.

Lunar X is weird because you leapfrog nuts and leave cams as gear when you can.

Thanks for all the great beta everyone. I haven't ever heard of the Trango brassies. Do they have as nice of a tapered angle as the HB's?

I guess that I should also post that I haven't climbed Lunar X; I'm just infatuated with HB/DMM offsets.

--Marc

the question is...where can you get the brass now that yosemite mountain shop no longer sells them? Anybody got any friends who wanna sell some of these?

Lunar Ec - a good route or not?

John - what do you mean by "if you really want to do this route"?

This route is near the top of my Zion list. Recommended, or not . . .

Hey

I just did this route last week solo and it is really nice. I would recommend it. You will be loving the DMM aluminum offsets and should be ok w/o the brass, it will just be a little more spicy. Make sure you have aliens and tri-cams. Email me if you want any other beta.

B

Yes. YOu need them. About 3 sets should do it though.
couple cam hook. sweet route.

I did it clean in 1998 with no aliens (metolius TCU's mainly), no cam hooks (you shouldn't be using cam hooks in sandstone anyway) and a total of 3 offsets. Don't get me wrong offsets are your friend, but if a couple of wall noobs pulled it off I'm sure you can too.

It was a much newer route then, no? I imagine the placements are much more blown out nowadays.

DMM offsets are king in Zion. The route can be done without offsets, it's just a little bit spicier. Bring a pink tri-cam, DMMs, and micro nuts and you'll be psyched. This is a really cool route, exposed and challenging..... Enjoy

Dont forget those tri cams ... Pink and Red are clutch I believe. Offset aliens are pretty handy but you can probably get by without. Maybe take a rack of the smaller to med tricams for all those blown out pin scars. Good luck

Lunar X is a perfect example of why we should NOT use cam hooks in sandstone and especially on sandstone in Zion. The route now has alot of blown out scars many of which I believe came from cam hooks. I know that this route started to really get trashed about 2002 or 2003 when cam hooks really started to get popular. I was on this route back in 99 or so and again in 2003 I think and was shocked at how much the route had changed. I personally have blown out some sandstone with a cam hook. I saw how easy it was to do and have not used cam hooks on sandstone since.