By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Jul 6, 2008
| Thank you for your work on replacing the bolts and anchors on many trade routes in Zion. Nothing better then getting to the chains and seeing your hard work and clipping with confidence.
Please contact me. I have questions.
kevin_likes_to_climb_much@hotmail.com |  |
By k. riemondy
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Jul 7, 2008
| Bump! Thank you! | |
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2008
| kevinhansen wrote: Please contact me.
I think its "Kraus" and he's no longer in Utah (for a number of years) I seem to recall. Used to have the speed record, with G Money, on Moonlight. Until Ammon/Brian and then that solo guy blew it away.
http://www.sportsguidemag.com/archive/June/features-zion.asp
Jared's out of the country?
Jason Stevens posts here from time to time. But, you'd find it easier to contact him in Ephraim. He doesn't check email that often.
Mike White also posts here and he's done work for the ASCA too. He's a bit easier to get ahold of.
Cheers. | |
By mikewhite
From holliday ut
Jul 13, 2008
| Well I am not on your list but I have replaced a bunch of bolts on the trade routes.
What questions do you have? | |
By The Larry
Jul 14, 2008
| mikewhite wrote: Well I am not on your list but I have replaced a bunch of bolts on the trade routes. What questions do you have?
Did you ever clean up the "ABC" boulder down in Moab? | |
By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Jul 15, 2008
| mikewhite wrote: What questions do you have?
I've spent quite a bit of time on Touchstone Wall in Zion and I'd Love to replace many of its anchors. I'd like to get in touch with Ron O' and find out where the actual pitch anchors should be. Many have been added and the number of pitchs has changed.
The anchors have some DA's common on all anchors and there is a star drive that spins.
I think of all the routes in Zion this one sees the most traffic. (Probably because it's recomended in Jared Ogden's How to Big Wall book as a good begginer route.)
If _I_ do end up replacing the anchors, I'd like to put only the best 1/2 inch 5 piece bolts with 1/2 inch chain. Many anchors are not equilized because one long chain was used instead of two short chains cut to the right length.
The question is; How do you reuse the hole drilled for the angle? What size is the hole?
Kevin | |
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 15, 2008
| kevinhansen wrote: I've spent quite a bit of time on Touchstone Wall in Zion and I'd Love to replace many of its anchors.
You'd be best not to touch it without RO's input, and, even then, my bet is he wouldn't be into you doing anything to HIS route. He routinely climbs it and I'm sure he feels that the anchors are fine.
He's around. Posts quite often on the super taco.
-Brian in SLC | |
By mikewhite
From holliday ut
Jul 15, 2008
| The star bolt might be okay to replace but stay away from the drilled pins.
Still ask Ron.
But I know what he will say. | |
By Stymingersfink
Jul 16, 2008
| mikewhite wrote: The star bolt might be okay to replace but stay away from the drilled pins. Still ask Ron. But I know what he will say.
i suggest you just mess with any of "his" routes first, then you go ask him if your work was acceptable.
You'd better show up heavy to that meeting though, shoot first ask questions of the cadaver, otherwise it'll be YOU getting the taste of a .45 slug through the teeth. | |
By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Jul 16, 2008
| Stymingersfink wrote: it'll be YOU getting the taste of a .45 slug through the teeth.
Forget I mentioned it. Its just a route.
Kevin | |
By Jeff S
From tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2008
| Stymingersfink wrote: i suggest you just mess with any of "his" routes first, then you go ask him if your work was acceptable. You'd better show up heavy to that meeting though, shoot first ask questions of the cadaver, otherwise it'll be YOU getting the taste of a .45 slug through the teeth.
yes. you should alter the man's routes, then shoot him dead. this will make you very popular in the area. make sure you tell the judge that the guys on MP said it was OK. | |
By S. Gileadi
From Salt Lake City
Aug 5, 2008
| Jeff S wrote: yes. you should alter the man's routes, then shoot him dead. this will make you very popular in the area. make sure you tell the judge that the guys on MP said it was OK.
I take it you haven't heard many Ron O stories, eh?
My buddy flagged him over in his car to get route beta once and Ron pulled a gun on him... one story out of many... the man likes his guns, 'nuff said. | |
By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Aug 7, 2008
| S. Gileadi wrote: I take it you haven't heard many Ron O stories, eh? My buddy flagged him over in his car to get route beta once and Ron pulled a gun on him... one story out of many... the man likes his guns, 'nuff said.
Nothing like asking beta one minute and getting threatened with your life the next. Never thought Big walling was so dangerous.
Now I've got to jug with a vest? Anyone done a route while strapped? Good thing my homies "Beeggi Dwalt, Ra Shinhater, and Ace Boon" have my back at the belay, wouldn't want someone to bust a cap while I'm hooking P5...
Shish yo.
Anywhere there is a "nuff said" someone will always say more. | |
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