By doctor
Nov 29, 2007
| Hi Everyone, I'm new to MP, but I'd like to take this opportunity to let y'all know that a 2nd edition of the Creek guide is coming soon. Thank you all for your diligent work on the route database, I've pored through it extensively. If you know of routes that aren't in the database yet or have any corrections, omissions etc. the time is now to send them in. Best to send directly to heidi@sharpendbooks.com
In addition The Sharp End is also soliciting photos fotr the new book. Digital submissions or scanned slides only at 140dpi. Please don't send super hi res images, they'll do that later. For your efforts they will pay $30 per photo and give you a guidebook.Please include cliff name,climber name and route name for each shot. They are willing to buy multiple photos from anyone if the stuff is good.They're also looking for photos for the 2009 Women of Climbing calendar. If you have any info or pics and would like to share, I'm trying to make the new guide better than the first. Thanks Very Much, The Doctor |  |
By LDM
Nov 29, 2007
| You mean there are going to be be pictures of people besides yourself in the new book? And all the places that you can still go in the creek that are secluded are going to be swarming with people? Sweat! | |
By John Langston
Nov 29, 2007
| Doctor, I mean this in the nicest way possible. I hope you never complete this project. The first guide was started a downward spiral that doesn't look like it'll stop soon.
Please go fuck up somewhere else, you've already fucked up the creek. | |
By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Nov 30, 2007
| LDM and JL: laughable. | |
By Cpt. E
Nov 30, 2007
| Hi everyone, I'm new to MP but I wanted you all to know that the 1st edition of 'Climbing Guide Authors of Climbing Guides' will soon be available, along with the accompanying nude calander. Its almost complete, but we're still looking for more calander photos to complete the loincloth layout. For those of you especially fond of our guidebook authors, we're working on a spread depicting the doctor and fred knapp racing eachother up the un-named and 3am, each w/ all of their respective 'works' clipped to their asses.... | |
By Jeff Giddings
From Fort Collins
Nov 30, 2007
| Just so everyone is clear: John Langston and LDM are the only people allowed to climb at the creek. They are the true hard men who did all the first ascents and discovered all the cool crags. No one would have ever heard of the creek if it hadn't been for the Evil Doctor. | |
By oldfattradguuy
Nov 30, 2007
| why can't you out of staters GO FUCK UP YOUR OWN STATE and leave utah alone and in addition BOYCOTT ALL SHARP END PUBLICATIONS!
someone should buy john langston a beer!
the doctor must be a pretty bad doctor if he has to supplement his income with that from a guide book! | |
By Rob T
Nov 30, 2007
| Please go back to this format | |
By John Langston
Nov 30, 2007
| Jeff Giddings wrote: Just so everyone is clear: John Langston and LDM are the only people allowed to climb at the creek. They are the true hard men who did all the first ascents and discovered all the cool crags. No one would have ever heard of the creek if it hadn't been for the Evil Doctor.
Jeff, I did my first climb in Indian Creek in about 99', not really that long ago. That first trip was over Thanksgiving break. We climbed at Supercrack. There were MAYBE a 10 cars parked in the lot below. The camping at Bridger Jacks was empty, maybe 3-4 groups.
The next time I came was in March, spring break time. I distinctly remember meeting only one person. He led Sinestra, at the time, that seemed amazing. Anyway, again it was empty.
This was pretty much how it went. Definately people in the area but not many and they were all super respectful of the place.
Then it all changed about 4-5 years ago. Our lord and god David Bloom came out with a guidebook that made Indian Creek a sport destination AND Timmy "Stuffs a Gerbil up his Ass" Oneil came out with return to sender.
Every other rock in the desert now has a festering steamer under it. Popular 5.10's and even some 5.11's are starting to look like asscrack because they have been climbed to death. Chalk is everywhere, and it doesn't wash off. It's a huge mess that only gets worse with use. Dogs steal my breakfast. Access is becoming more and more of an issue.
Anyone else noticed that the coyotes are way more prevalent in the area than they used to be? I wonder why these scavengers are around. It couldn't be that people are leaving messes could it?
Now there are "Consolation Prize" climbs going up everywhere. This is going to get a lot of you pissed at me. I stand by my word though. Consolation Prize climbs are basically sport climbs. They use face holds through the crux, sometimes even bolted, to easy crack climbing. They're good sends for those who cannot climb hard cracks. I didn't invent the term, I heard it from a dude harder than anyone who's going to flame me (I promise), but I agree with the premise.
I might as well add something more to make sure there's not anyone who I've left NOT pissed at me. Hmmm... What do you get when you put an icepick in a dead baby's head?....
Before you flame me please answer the following questions for yourself though. When was the last time you cleaned up someone else's campsite? When was the last time you replaced an anchor in IC? When was the last time you cleaned tickmarks off a crack in IC? When was the last time you carried large bags of trash that weren't yours back to Moab?
I love you all, please share some love though. The climbers that should use a place as special as IC don't need even more directions to the place, it's not hidden.
I'm pissed, so you don't have to be,
John | |
By Dave Holliday
From Louisville, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| I think it's cool that John is passionate enough about Indian Creek that the increased traffic and all of its attendant problems riles him up. Obviously, the clock can't be turned back and the Creek will never be the way it was "back in the day". I've only climbed there a few years so I'm not sure how that was anyway.
People need to get used to Indian Creek being a major destination. But, we don't need to let the place get trashed. I like John's idea of cleaning up the environment around you. What about also encouraging people to check out other, less popular, crags there? I spent several days there last spring with a friend and the only other party we saw was on Blue Gramma. We didn't see another party the other days and we still got in great climbing.
It seems like the guidebook could be used in one of several ways: to point people towards the "classics" or to point people towards great climbs off the beaten path. Encourage your friends to use it in the latter way rather than the former.
Edit: I submitted several photos for the new guidebook. Neener, neener. | |
By Marc Horan
From Boulder, CO area
Nov 30, 2007
| oldfattradguuy wrote: why can't you out of staters GO FUCK UP YOUR OWN STATE and leave utah alone..
I wonder what Utah's Travel and Tourism Board would say about that statement. LOL. I moved to Colorado not too long ago, and I have yet to climb at IC. I will, however, be making a trip there later this winter or next spring. I will not be "[fucking up]..[Utah]" nor will I "fuck up" IC.
In fact, I'll probably carry someone else's trash out. I usually carry out any unclaimed trash from the crags that I go to. Some of that trash might even be from a Utahan! Perish the thought! Because only out-of-staters trash the IC I'm sure.
I can't speak to the effects of the new guidebooks on IC, but oldfattradguuy's statement is quite selfish, IMO.
oldfattradguuy: When did Utah cede from the nation? I would consider moving there if it weren't for all of the ridiculous laws.
--Marc | |
By susan peplow
From what day is this?
Nov 30, 2007
| Hummmm.....the doctor joins mountain project and......
Post 1- Graciously offers to hook up with someone visiting Southern Arizona
Post 2 - Notifies us that his new guidebook is in the works and wants any updated information so the guide is as accurate as possible AND states that the publisher is paying for fresh photo's to be showcased
Post 3 - Fun interaction of a recent trip to IC for Sushifest of which was miserable on many accounts but he'd never say that
Yup, you guys sold me. That Doctor is a jerkoff!!
Susan | |
By Bill Ballace
From Wheat Ridge , CO
Nov 30, 2007
| Marc Horan wrote: Some of that trash might even be from a Utahan!
I believe that it is Utard not UTAHAN.
Hopefully, the Doctor and Knappaweed will realize that they are making a climbing book rather than a coffe table book. DullEnd publishing has very serious issues with durability. | |
By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| John rant is hilarious...IC especially around the Supercrack Buttress...it is one of the most popular sport-climbing crags in the west.
WTF do you expect???
Your stab at elitism is heartwarming...go do some towers or climb in the
many remote canyons with thousands of undone cracks.
Blaming the Doctor and his guide is juvenile at best...Blame yourself John...there just more of your types around than there use to be.
Also...I would love to be around if you ever say that to Timmy in person...you be the only person walking around with something up his ass. | |
By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Nov 30, 2007
| yeah.... and all you ghey IC climbers with NIMBY ass ideas stay the fuk out of Joshua Tree and Yosemite. Those places have been totally fukked since the guidebooks came out, and If I ever see that John Wolf guy or Roper around here they are going to hear it. Vogel too! ALL THESE CLIMBERS ARE RUINING CLIMBING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAHHHHHRRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!!! I WANT TO KILL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! | |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 30, 2007
| Bob D'Antonio wrote: Also...I would love to be around if you ever say that to Timmy in person...you be the only people walking around with something up his ass.
That's some funny sh*t! :) | |
By susan peplow
From what day is this?
Nov 30, 2007
| John Langston wrote: I did my first climb in Indian Creek in about 99'
I was dreamin' when I wrote this
Forgive me if it goes astray
But when I woke up this mornin'
Could have sworn it was judgment day
The sky was all purple
There were people runnin' everywhere
Tryin' to run from the destruction
You know I didn't even care
They say two thousand zero, zero, party over,
Oops, out of time!
So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999!
I was dreamin' when I wrote this
So sue me if I go too fast
But life is just a party
And parties weren't meant to last
War is all around us
My mind says prepare to fight
So if I gotta die
I'm gonna listen to my body tonight
They say two thousand zero, zero, party over,
Oops, out of time!
So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999!
1999!
If you didn't come to party
Don't bother knockin' on my door
I got a lion in my pocket
And baby, he's ready to roar
Yeah, everybody's got a bomb
We could all die any day
But before I'll let that happen
I'll dance my life away
They say two thousand zero, zero, party over,
Oops, out of time!
(We're runnin' outta time)
So tonight we're gonna party like it's 1999!
Say, say,
Two thousand zero, zero, party over,
Oops, out of time!
So tonight we're gonna party like it's 1999!
Alright, it's 1999!
You say it, 1999!
1999!
1999! Don't stop, don't stop, say it 1 more time!
1999!
| |
By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| John wrote:Jeff, I did my first climb in Indian Creek in about 99', not really that long ago.
You were born about 15-20 years to late. Not much you can do about that. | |
By Allen Hill
From 5 Points, DENCO
Nov 30, 2007
| More like thirty years! | |
By Jeff Giddings
From Fort Collins
Nov 30, 2007
| I did my first climb at IC in 1987 and camped below supercrack buttress on that trip. It has changed alot since then - for the worse - but I don't think David Bloom should have to listen to personal attacks because he helped produce a very nice guidebook. I can buy a guidebook for every climbing area in the world, why should the creek be any different? Maybe we should blame Black Diamond and Metolius, those fancy camming devices are what make the creek so popular. | |
By John Langston
Nov 30, 2007
| Bob D'Antonio wrote: WTF do you expect???
Anymore, I expect to see 5 people with 6 dogs and a boombox at the crag.
Bobby wrote: Your stab at elitism is heartwarming...go do some towers or climb in the many remote canyons with thousands of undone cracks.
Done and doing more, that doesn't mean that I'm not going to go to IC ever again
Bobby wrote: Blaming the Doctor and his guide is juvenile at best...Blame yourself John...there just more of your types around than there use to be.
I don't solely blame Bloom. I don't blame a single entity. In no particular order I blame the rise in climbing popularity, the repopularization of of "trad", the new guide, return 2 sender, and yes, I do blame myself. I absolutely am a user of IC. I can't argue that I'm not. My dogless, chalkless, raveless, small group, cleaning up my own mess, and others' messes, quiet camping impact does seem to be less than what we've come to accept as as normal out there though.
bobby wrote: Also...I would love to be around if you ever say that to Timmy in person...you be the only person walking around with something up his ass.
A public figure in the climbing community who gets offended when someone doesn't like him based on the persona he portrays to the media? Geez, I've never seen that before.
I've got a plan, if Timmy "Turetts" Tonail tries to kick my ass, I'll say "Boobs!!" and point, then I'll run. If he tries to stick something up my ass, I'll do the same but run backwards. | |
By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| John wrote: 've got a plan, if Timmy "Turetts" Tonail tries to kick my ass, I'll say "Boobs!!" and point, then I'll run. If he tries to stick something up my ass, I'll do the same but run backwards.
Good plan...instead of his foot up your ass...your balls will be in your throat.
John...only my wife (33 years) and few close old friends call me Bobby...try Bob next time. | |
By susan peplow
From what day is this?
Nov 30, 2007
| John Langston wrote: Doctor, I mean this in the nicest way possible......snip......Please go fuck up somewhere else, you've already fucked up the creek.
That's nice? Where's the Christmas spirit?
John Langston wrote: My dogless, chalkless, raveless, small group, cleaning up my own mess, and others' messes, quiet camping impact does seem to be less than what we've come to accept as as normal out there though.
I noticed you didn't mention "guideless"
~Susan | |
By John Langston
Nov 30, 2007
| susan peplow wrote: I noticed you didn't mention "guideless" ~Susan
I have one. I found it on the road.
It's gotten use. I wiped my ass with it once. | |
By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| John wrote:It's gotten use. I wiped my ass with it once.
I hope you packed it out. | |
By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| why is the topic of IC always an asswipe & sausage fest? | |
|
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