By Ben Lyon From Birmingham, AL Aug 24, 2008
| I and a handful of partners are kicking off the forthcoming Fall weather with a trip this Labor Day weekend...let's hope Hurricane Fay's offshoots allow some dry spots below the Mason-Dixon line...copious amounts of SmackTalking and planning to follow...
After all, gas prices are down and temps for Labor Day weekend look to be becoming agreeable...
For the Fall, on this borderline-5.10-leader's ticklist, are the following:
All of the moderates at Laurel Knob...it's big, it's grey, it's awesome! The Thumb via S-Crack and S-Direct (OK, not the SE, but still worthy) - Utah...with some splitters to follow... The Orginial Route - Whitesides...I am so scared! Well, maybe not. The Mummy, Daddy, and Prow in a day - Linville Complete my conquest of every established route 5.10 and under at legally accessed areas in my home state --- !ALABAMA! "The Arete Tour" at TWall...vandals aside. AND a bit more...maybe something new in NW GA, some Suck Creek chossness, maybe, just maybe, some bouldering this Winter...
Now, how 'bout y'all? Yeehaw! |  |
By Jesse Morehouse From CO Aug 24, 2008
| If the OR doesn't scare you (and it shouldn't) do it and Traditions in a day. I double dare you...!!! |  |
By Ryan Howa From pinson al Aug 25, 2008
| hope you ladies have fun. but get ready for the next trip, because wonderbread will show you how its done. |  |
By Justin Dansby From GA Aug 25, 2008
| Hell yeah. I'm glad someone else is excited about the upcoming cooler weather. Make sure to add Big Green to the list. I'll bring the bear spray and whiskey. |  |
By bernard From birmingham, al Aug 25, 2008
| Ben Lyon wrote: Complete my conquest of every established route 5.10 and under at legally accessed areas in my home state --- !ALABAMA!
Well......being this discriminating will have you missing out on a few gems
.....and its supposed to rain all week
other than that, tally ho |  |
By Ben Lyon From Birmingham, AL Aug 25, 2008
| jesse wrote: If the OR doesn't scare you (and it shouldn't) do it and Traditions in a day. I double dare you...!!!
The OR and Traditions in a day? Serious.
justin wrote: Make sure to add Big Green to the list. I'll bring the bear spray and whiskey
Oh, don't worry. Big Green will be visited in the next week or so...I love that hairball stuff.
Ryan wrote: ...because wonderbread will show you how its done.
Yeah, when you get done going to the beach and in general hanging out with other ladies...yeah, OTHER ladies.
bernard wrote: Well......being this discriminating will have you missing out on a few gems .....and its supposed to rain all week other than that, tally ho
I wonderd if anyone would catch that...arrrghhh! |  |
By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO Aug 25, 2008
| Ben Lyon wrote: The Orginial Route - Whitesides...I am so scared! Well, maybe not.
This is the route that completely changed my perspective on the bolting controversy. That first pitch originally had no protection whatsoever from what I understand. Then, someone put in one lone bolt just north of the middle. I have climbed that route three times. I led that pitch (with the bolt) three times. On the second time, rope drag at the absolute last move before the ledge caused me to get too foward in my stance and my foot blew off a crystal - down I went. That is a loooooooong fall from there. I ended up breaking my leg, but I didn't die. That bolt has been chopped and replaced over the years from what I understand. But, thankfully, it was there that day, or I wouldn't be. |  |
By Joey Wolfe Aug 25, 2008
| Nice,
I have been lucky enough to have missed very few weekends this summer (and with fall around the corner, looking forward to keeping that momentum into next summer). Oh and not losing 10 lbs. of water weight during a day at Sunset will be great.
Ben, lets talk about getting you out in N. GA. T-Gorge perhaps?? Maybe show you the biggest sandbagged crack in Ga up at Yonah? I owe you one for those topos.
No solid tick list yet but here are some goals for fall/winter:
Spend more time in North N.C.
push my trad onsight ability into the .10s
Push my sport onsights into high .10s low .11s
Visit Laurel Knob enough times to sleepwalk the hike in.
Get my ass up Whitesides.
Do some climbs away from the Golden Locks area of T-Wall (an easy goal)
OS Primitive Paradox at T-Gorge and maybe, just maybe redpoint Punk Wave.
Use less chalk |  |
By Jeff Mekolites From HOTlanta, GA Aug 25, 2008
| Alright...things will get serious in a couple more weeks...waiting on broken finger to finish healing completely...
Yeah, a fall tick list...
On the agenda (some planned some to be planned):
Sedona Gunks Laurel Knob New River Gorge T Wall Jamestown Linville the Canyon - after all I gotta get strong again somehow...did I say again? I mean strong period. |  |
By Jeff Mekolites From HOTlanta, GA Aug 25, 2008
| Ben/Joey...let me know if you want beta/partner for the OR...
Did somebody mention Big Green? We are getting closer to scary... |  |
By Joey Wolfe Aug 25, 2008
| Jeff Mekolites wrote: Ben/Joey...let me know if you want beta/partner for the OR...
Will do, hope your finger is mending well.
And speaking of the Canyon, took my first visit this past Saturday........ lots of air time, so good.
Jeff's Gunks trip has my mind wandering, little bit of a thread drift but who has climbing plans outside of the south this fall??
I'm headed out to Golden, Co for a week in Oct. Eldo, Lumpy, CCC, maybe some sub-alpine if it isn't buried. |  |
By Paul Barnes From Gainesville, Georgia Aug 25, 2008
| Not necessarily in this order:
Actually get on a route at LK...preferably without knocking out any more teeth. (See thunderstorm pics in LK section of this site).
The OR Titties and Beer
OS Punk Wave OS Stannards Crack
Finish the T-Wall 5.10 handcrack tour
Get up the 10's @ Sunset that were 9+ when I did 'em in the 80's, but spit me off last year when I came back after 12 years on the couch.
Find and climb (or try) every route put up by my latest partner Jody Jacobs (so far so good on that)
And Jeff...I've seen you climb and seen your tick list...you're stronger than most of us even WITH the broken finger. Come do Traditions while we do the OR so you can rescue us mortals if we epic...:)
NEXT........ |  |
By Ben Lyon From Birmingham, AL Aug 25, 2008
| joey wrote: Ben, lets talk about getting you out in N. GA. T-Gorge perhaps?? Maybe show you the biggest sandbagged crack in Ga up at Yonah? I owe you one for those topos...OS Primitive Paradox at T-Gorge and maybe, just maybe redpoint Punk Wave. Use less chalk
Joey-
Tallulah is probably my second favorite spot that I have ever climbed...let's get up there, I'll belay you on P.P. (the onsight eluded me as well) and we can do Punk Wave...Paul! You down?
I need to get to Yonah as well...so far I have missed multiple opportunities to go with one of the original FA'rs to the area...I suck, I know. |  |
By Ben Lyon From Birmingham, AL Aug 25, 2008
| Jeff Mekolites wrote: Ben/Joey...let me know if you want beta/partner for the OR... Did somebody mention Big Green? We are getting closer to scary...
Jeff-
I may shoot you an email here soon. Thanks.
You do the same if I can help you with any LK approach/route info...I noticed that you have already been there...anyway, the offer stands. |  |
By Paul Barnes From Gainesville, Georgia Aug 25, 2008
| Ben Lyon wrote: ...and we can do Punk Wave...Paul! You down?
I don't know man it's a long 45 miles from my house....;)
Umm...yeah...count me in any/every time. |  |
By RadDawg From NE, GA Aug 26, 2008
| OK, I'm in....
I want to top out on a route at LK and climb more often up there.
Make a Chattanooga run or two for some sandstone fun.
Guess I need to keep pink pointing behind Paul when he onsights my old FA's too.
Oh yeah, and after it gets cold, I'm gonna get out the scrub brushes and rebolting gear to restore some old routes and retry some old projects. |  |
By Sean Cobourn From Gramling, SC Aug 26, 2008
| My Fall ticklist also includes copious amounts of Laurel Knob, yet another new route binge at the north side of the Bald and perhaps a Linville trip with the old timers crew. Oh yes, and my first foray to Red Rocks in Vegas! |  |
By Justin Dansby From GA Aug 26, 2008
| Ticklist: Fall Creek Falls specifically Gordita and then climb the rest down to Fiery Gizzard. Tallulah Gunks in Oct. - Jeff when are you going? RRG in Oct. Anyone want to tag along? Cloudland Canyon if we can get in. Big Green if anyone else is going. The unexplored Yonah.
Fresh back from Smith Rocks which was kick ass. |  |
By Jesse Morehouse From CO Aug 26, 2008
| Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: This is the route that completely changed my perspective on the bolting controversy. That first pitch originally had no protection whatsoever from what I understand. Then, someone put in one lone bolt just north of the middle.
NSFOD- Holy crap! Im impressed you survived that one and are still climbing- you are the man! Ive done it straight up to the bolt and also actually following the instructions in the old NC guide book which are to start directly under the tree on the ledge above and ignore the bolt.
The bolt route felt more like 5.9 slab and the no bolt way felt a lot more like the 5.7 its supposed to. Funny thing about climbing the 5.7 var. is that I was so psyched to be climbing that day I got ahead of myself and 1/2 way up yelled down to my belayer that the guide book was full of shit and I could totally get a cam in mid way up. He told me that was nice but Id forgotten to rack any gear before leaving the ground. |  |
By RadDawg From NE, GA Aug 27, 2008
| Hey Sean,
How's the pro on Route of the Living Dead? I've seen the topo but thats it. Is the crux pretty well protected? I'm guessing that route probably dries pretty fast after a rain. I can't imagine what those water grooves looked like the past few days with tropical storm Fay rolling through.
Red Rocks is well worth a trip. I want to go back there myself, mostly for the long routes. |  |
By Sean Cobourn From Gramling, SC Aug 27, 2008
| Rad- The first half of second pitch is the crux and it is fairly well protected. As I recall Bruce got a tiny wire in on the run between the bolts. As a moderate climber seconding a master, I would call that section of the pitch scary but not deadly. The rest of the route ain't too bad. It goes between the ditches, so yes, it should be dry fairly fast. |  |
By doug s From Boulder, CO Aug 27, 2008
| SE Represent: If you haven't checked the new Alpinist - dem Georgia boys done good. |  |
By Joey Wolfe Aug 27, 2008
| Ben Lyon wrote: Joey- Tallulah is probably my second favorite spot that I have ever climbed...let's get up there, I'll belay you on P.P. (the onsight eluded me as well) and we can do Punk Wave...Paul! You down? I need to get to Yonah as well...so far I have missed multiple opportunities to go with one of the original FA'rs to the area...I suck, I know.
T-Gorge 2nd, what is the favorite? And yes, I'm down for whatever this fall. PM soon to follow. I'm suprised I've never run in to Paul, Paul I live down in Dunwoody, we should hit up Stannard's Crack, I lead it but I haven't been back to repeat it and would like to.
We need to do like the guys out on the front range and have a MP.com beer night.
Little hard for the us in the SE to pull off. So maybe an overnighter with some climbing and drinkn' one weekend soon. T-Gorge, Looking glass, or Chatty/t-wall, Sandrock/jamestown. I'd be down for any of these spots. Where ever is easiest for all who want to to come. Climbing, Camping and Kegs, any takers?? |  |
By RadDawg From NE, GA Aug 27, 2008
| Sean - Thanks for the info, I'm struggling to get back to moderate climber status myself so maybe I'll hold off on that crux pitch for a while :) doug s - care to elaborate on that, for us non-Alpinist subcribers? |  |
By doug s From Boulder, CO Aug 27, 2008
| It is a somewhat controversial piece on Laurel Knob - It features several routes that the CCC will not acknowledge as sanctioned lines...put up without the proper paperwork...But you probably know all about this RadDog since you are all over this topic on The SCC and CCC sites... |  |
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