A few weeks ago I took a crack at leading Revision in Mission Gorge. After taking a few falls at the crux I decided to head back fresh another day. Last weekend I went out to finish up my business. To my dismay it looked as if the route were never there. Setting a TR looked dicey and with no idea of the anchor condition I moved on for the day.

I contacted Chris Hubbard (FA) to see if he knew what was up. He was disappointed to hear the news. He filled me in on some recent damage at ECM and wondered if the two were related. He also expressed interest in re-establishing the route at Mission Gorge but was concerned of why somebody would find it offensive.

For those of you who haven’t been on the route, it can be found in Kennedy’s 2006 guidebook. It is just right of History Book. Kennedy gives it 3 stars and a rating of 10d. A TR can be set according to Chris, assuming the anchor is still there. Coming from somebody who has climbed almost every climb at Mission Gorge, I can tell you that it would be worth your time to set this up and give it a go, especially if you like the sticky orange rock.

Unfortunately the route was somewhat obscure, having only first appeared in published material in 2006. I hope that some of you who have climbed it or seen it can comment if the route is worthwhile or offensive and for what reason. If you haven’t, go check it out and post up your thoughts. Chris mentioned that he may tick the original bolt locations for the public to see and comment upon. There were 5 lead bolts in the steep upper portion of the climb. The lower half is more of an "adventure climb" and can be done in many ways.

I haven't been on this route but go to the Gorge regularly. Okay, I also can't climb that hard. What exactly does it mean to chop a route? Is it taking off the hanger and then literally chopping the bolt with bolt cutters?

A side note - I tried to tighten up the bolt anchors on Abacab a few weekends ago, they are both spinners. The bolt heads have been beaten (with a rock?) and a small wrench couldn't turn them. This anchor ignores an easy hike around and plenty of spots for a gear anchor just behind the bolts.

Chopping could mean literally hacking the bolts off, prying them out with a crowbar, or (as it appears in your case) trying to just bash them in with whatever you have available such as a rock. Essentially anything that makes the clips worthless.

For most bolts prying them out will be easiest, and as the OP said "it looked as if the route were never there" - suggesting they were probably yanked out and filled in with glue/sand mixture as should properly be done (when it's appropriate to pull a bolt).

I have heard that the anchor is still there so go out and give this route a TR!