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Southern Sierra

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Balloon Dome 
Courtright Reservoir 
Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" 
Shaver Lake Bouldering 
Shuteye Ridge 
Squarenail 
Tollhouse Rock 
Upper Jackass Lake 
Wilderness Wall 
Yeti Dome (aka Musick Mountain) 

Southern Sierra 


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Location: 36.5096, -118.5356 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Apr 11, 2011
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Cory, just past the crux of KY

Description 

The Sierra Nevada Foothills cover a huge geographical area. Dividing this into Southern and Northern regions is an attempt to create a more logical, manageable, and hopefully user-friendly structure. The Sonora Pass Highway (108) area is used as a boundary between Southern and Northern regions.

For information about the Eastern Sierra (Bishop, Mammoth, etc), refer to the Sierra Eastside section of the site.

For information about alpine routes including Charlotte Dome, please refer to the High Sierra section of the site.

The National Parks have their own dedicated sections. See Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP and Yosemite National Park.


Getting There 

Tollhouse Rock, Courtright Reservoir, Yeti Dome (aka Musick Mountain) and Wilderness Wall are approached via Hwy 168 out of Fresno.

Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" is accessed from Hwy 41 out of Oakhurst.

Kings Canyon and Moro Rock (SEKI) are accessed by vehicle either from Hwy 180 from the northwest via Fresno, or by Hwy 198 from the southwest via Three Rivers.


137 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',59],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',24],['5.8',19],['5.9',23],['5.10',28],['5.11',9],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southern Sierra:
Tollhouse Traverse   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Whiskey Bill   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face
Are You Small?   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Squarenail
Free and Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
South Pillar   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face
Old Fart's Edge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Elephant Walk   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Gerrytromp   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Courtright Reservoir : Spring Dome
Beginner's Delight   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Taking a Bath With Strangers   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Tollhouse Rock : Hippo Wall
A Little Nukey   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome
Wandering Taoist   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Welcome to Courtright   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome
Art Baker Memorial   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Captain America   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   Courtright Reservoir : Penstemon Dome
Eye Of The Tiger   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 120'   Courtright Reservoir : Tiger Cage & Tiger Wall
Sixty Nine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Trapper Dome : Sex Wall
Shining Path   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   High Eagle : Main Wall - Lower Left
Browse More Classics in Southern Sierra

Featured Route For Southern Sierra
To find the start of A Little Nukey (5.9), look for the obvious "shield" above you. You should be directly below or slightly right of the shield. The first bolt is a bit high (PG13) but not runout. If your first bolt looks really high, you're probably on an adjacent climb. The start is partway down a slope.

A Little Nukey 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Power Dome
Pitch 1: (5.8) Follow a line of bolts (8 total) straight up shallow dishes and edges. After the 3rd bolt, the rock becomes more featured but the climbing is just a tad bit steeper. There is a 3 bolt belay (with rap rings) at the end of the pitch (50 meters). NOTE: A fourth bolt is located 2 feet above the belay and should be used for the next pitch opening moves.Pitch 2: (5.9-, 5 bolts) Head directly above the 1st pitch belay anchors. A few move of 5.9 are encountered in between the 2nd and 3rd ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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