Southern Migration
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Chuck Woodman, Jack Dorsey |
Page Views: | 2,675 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Bill Keiler on May 28, 2010 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170'
Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'
Variation Pitch 2: Continue straight up a clean strip past a bolt, and then another (which is now a 2 bolt set-up), then merge right with the regular P2. 5.6 180'
Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right (piton) past a couple overlaps (2nd piton, driven up-side-down) to a double bolt anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'
Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7
Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'
Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'
Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'
Variation Pitch 2: Continue straight up a clean strip past a bolt, and then another (which is now a 2 bolt set-up), then merge right with the regular P2. 5.6 180'
Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right (piton) past a couple overlaps (2nd piton, driven up-side-down) to a double bolt anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'
Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7
Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'
Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'
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