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Southern Hospitality p1 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allen, Drew Allen
Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: thomas chervenak on Sep 7, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I can't speak for pitch 3(12R),but pitch 1 of this route using the 11c variation is incredible. The variation bypasses what looks like a arduous indirect line by combining both pitches via a bolted bulge,into a long, direct, and very demanding pitch. A great mix of steep finger cracks, and balancy face climbing at the bolts makes this an absolute classic. The fingercrack above the bulge is relentless.


    Location 

    Southern Hospitality is located just down hill of Gamesmanship. If you start walking uphill you've gone too far. Two ropes to get down. Uncomfortable belay.


    Protection 

    Doubles in green, yellow, and red aliens(or purple BD's) are helpful as are plenty of nuts.



    Comments on Southern Hospitality p1 Add Comment
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    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Jun 7, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    You can lower/rap with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end(s) of the rope. If you were to belay at the top of the pitch I don't think it would be particularly uncomfortable. You'll want some .75 and red camalots up higher (maybe a #2 as well, I don't remember).

    Amazing route with tricky cruxes.

    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 10, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    One word: Stout.

    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Oct 22, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    After climbing this for the second time this year I think this is closer to 11+. There are multiple 5.11 cruxes on this line. I think it's harder than p1 of Psalm 32 which gets a rating of 12a.

    By Derek Doucet
    Feb 17, 2011
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    ^^Agreed. IMO, P1 of Psalm 32 is probably .11b (at most). P1 of Southern Hospitality feels like solid .11+ to me. Both pitches are superb whatever the grade!

    By Matt Salter
    Jun 21, 2011
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    I agree with the above; this is WAY harder then the first pitch of Psalm 32. Many cruxes, crappy, slippery feet, and no great rests.
    Awesome.