Southern Hospitality p1 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Geoff Smith, Gary Allen, Drew Allen |
| Submitted By: | thomas chervenak on Sep 7, 2009 |
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Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Season Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description I can't speak for pitch 3(12R),but pitch 1 of this route using the 11c variation is incredible. The variation bypasses what looks like a arduous indirect line by combining both pitches via a bolted bulge,into a long, direct, and very demanding pitch. A great mix of steep finger cracks, and balancy face climbing at the bolts makes this an absolute classic. The fingercrack above the bulge is relentless.
Location Southern Hospitality is located just down hill of Gamesmanship. If you start walking uphill you've gone too far. Two ropes to get down. Uncomfortable belay.
Protection Doubles in green, yellow, and red aliens(or purple BD's) are helpful as are plenty of nuts.
| Comments on Southern Hospitality p1 |
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By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| You can lower/rap with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end(s) of the rope. If you were to belay at the top of the pitch I don't think it would be particularly uncomfortable. You'll want some .75 and red camalots up higher (maybe a #2 as well, I don't remember).
Amazing route with tricky cruxes. |
By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| After climbing this for the second time this year I think this is closer to 11+. There are multiple 5.11 cruxes on this line. I think it's harder than p1 of Psalm 32 which gets a rating of 12a. |
By Derek Doucet
Feb 17, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| ^^Agreed. IMO, P1 of Psalm 32 is probably .11b (at most). P1 of Southern Hospitality feels like solid .11+ to me. Both pitches are superb whatever the grade! |
By Matt Salter
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| I agree with the above; this is WAY harder then the first pitch of Psalm 32. Many cruxes, crappy, slippery feet, and no great rests.
Awesome. |
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