This is a fun route that looks harder than it is. While there is some choss-wrangling down low, the roof moves are pretty wild and fun. Definitely worth the effort if you're in the area.
To the left of Screamweaver. It's the huge friggin roof.
A rack of cams, a rack of nuts, and a slings.
Pulling the lip
At the crux
Matt Smith climbing.
Josh Odom belaying.
Will Through the hard part.
Will Byrom starting to pump on Southern Boy's
Jan 18, 2010
The crux section protects well with 0.4" pieces. Placing the gear can be pumpy so don't fool around too much.
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I used ring locks to pull the roof. Don't be like me and miss the good holds.
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 7, 2011
The holds are there. Pretty much a fun, steep boulder problem on gear. Hard to get back on the wall if you blow the crux following.