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Jan 21, 2008
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
You don't hear alot of talk about southern Bouldering, like HP-40 IN Alabama. It's some really challenging sloper's. From V0-, to V10/V11! The Schultz family took over the place some year's back and has really turned it around. They are really nice people and Mike can really tell some interesting storie's and know's a good bit of history about horse pen's 40. If you have never been, it's worth the trip and plan to stay a couple of day's. It will take that long to work most of the problem's. Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Jan 21, 2008
"Stunning the Hog" 5.12d Left Flank RRG ...
Agreed, I've been visiting HP40 annually for the past 4-5 years. It is probably my favorite climbing area...a long weekend is sufficient for most (your tips will be bleeding after the 3rd day). JamesW
Joined Aug 8, 2007
308 points
Administrator
Jan 21, 2008
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
JamesW wrote:
Agreed, I've been visiting HP40 annually for the past 4-5 years. It is probably my favorite climbing area...a long weekend is sufficient for most (your tips will be bleeding after the 3rd day).

So true!! Be at the CMC, a good warm up to sloperfest.
Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Jan 22, 2008
Lost Roof (V4)
JamesW wrote:
Agreed, I've been visiting HP40 annually for the past 4-5 years. It is probably my favorite climbing area...a long weekend is sufficient for most (your tips will be bleeding after the 3rd day).


3 Days?! Put enough work in on a classic like bum boy, and one day will have the fingertip stigmata going.

Btw, what's yalls opinions on Bum Boys rating, I've seen everything from V2-V5.

-rob
Robert Dominguez
From Birmingham, AL
Joined Oct 11, 2007
607 points
Jan 22, 2008
"Stunning the Hog" 5.12d Left Flank RRG ...
I think that the climbs on the Millepede boulder are more subjective than many others at the area...I actually felt that Bum Boy & Centerpede were pretty easy. But, Millepede felt "right on" at V6. At the same time I had friends that I know should be able to flash V3/4 get shut down by Bum Boy...go figure?

One thing though...the slab/friction problems at HP40 are significantly harder with warmer temps...I think this has a lot to do with the ratings being all over the place.
JamesW
Joined Aug 8, 2007
308 points
Jan 22, 2008
The first day I got to HP i couldn't get up any of those problems on the millipede...but after a week I could send in my tennies. I think it is the nature of so many of those fantastic sloper problems. Once your muscle memory figures out the body tension needed , the slopers and mantles become three grades easier. Such a fantastic place!!.. Forget Hueco....the southeast in the winter is the place to be. Luke Hanley
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 2, 2007
65 points
Jan 22, 2008
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
North Carolina has pretty incredible bouldering too. Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,586 points
Jan 22, 2008
JamesW wrote:
One thing though...the slab/friction problems at HP40 are significantly harder with warmer temps...I think this has a lot to do with the ratings being all over the place.


True, the grades for a lot of the slab problems at Boat Rock (in Atlanta) are some what of an average of worst and best conditions. Just keep in mind that when you are cruising a moderate problem in January at HP40s, Boat Rock,LRC ect.. the locals send year round.
Joey Wolfe
Joined Jan 8, 2007
1,142 points
Administrator
Apr 8, 2008
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Now that a couple of months have past since the CMC comp at hp40, I thought I would add to this post and say that the comp. was a big success and are looking forward to next years comp. The weather couldn't have been better for bouldering and with the low competitor #'s
it was so liad back, like a big send-a-thon session. The prizes were many and great prizes at that. With the help of srcfc volunteers, the Schultz family, and the SCC it was a big success. I also want to thank vOOdOO sponsored boulderer Josh Reyes for working hard on the color scheme points system that worked out great and the topo that consisted of only 200 out of the 600 problems that are at hp40, which made it a challenge. So, thanks to all the people involed, including all the many sponsors!!!!
Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
May 11, 2010
Pit BBQ
Nick Stayner wrote:
North Carolina has pretty incredible bouldering too.



Rumbling Bald, NC. One of the best bouldering spots in the east.
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
132 points
May 12, 2010
This thread is from 2008. Lanky
From Tired
Joined Jun 20, 2008
405 points
Administrator
May 18, 2010
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Yet it's still true. HP40 will always rock! Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Jul 27, 2010
Unless you have the ape index of Adam Henry, Bumboy is a solid V4 most of the time (temp dependent)...and depending on which beta you use. Chick beta (left on the route) was easier than the guy (straight up the crack) beta for me, but I managed to send both. HP40 is nice but no where near as awesome as Rumbling Bald...its like a McDonalds play land versus Six Flags! Rumbling is destined to be the biggest and best bouldering area in the SE...it has more routes, and quality routes IMHO, than all 3 Triple Crown areas combined and still adding new routes every season. Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Joined May 22, 2010
1,360 points
Jul 27, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Agree that Triple Crown has made this place much much more well known to climbers nationwide. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Oct 22, 2010
I know I already posted this elsewhere but since we are on the subject of HP40, Triple Crown, and Adam Henry's ape index...


Andrew Kornylak
From GA
Joined Jul 4, 2003
30 points
Administrator
Nov 6, 2013
Deciphering the top!
Anyone have an old VHS copy of "Southern Slopers" by John Barr from the early days at HP40? I'd pay up for a copy, I can't seem to find mine and I would love to be able to watch it again! Jay Shultis
From Blacksburg VA
Joined Apr 29, 2010
4,330 points


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