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Select Area... Arivaca Lake Baboquivari Peak Chiricahua National Monument Cholla Mountain Cochise Stronghold Dry Canyon, The End of the Road, The Kitt Peak Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes) Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains) Mustang, The Newman Peak- "The Shady Lady?" Rincon Mountains Santa Rita Mountains Tanque Verde Canyon Texas Canyon Tinajas Altas Tollgate Pass Tucson Area Bouldering Tucson Buildering Tucson Mountains
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Saguaros and approaching storm, Mt. Lemmon DescriptionSouthern Arizona has a lot to offer most rock climbers. There are classic old school trad routes and super safe bolted climbs. Most of the climbing is lower angle to vertical face climbing. This is not to say that there isn't any steep stuff as a few crags have sections of steep to very steep (45 degrees) rock. There is some crack climbing but not many pure crack climbs. The majority of routes are between 5.8 and 5.12. For the 5.10 to 5.11 climber thousands of routes will keep you busy for a lifetime. There are only two 5.14s and 15 or so 5.13s on Mt. Lemmon at this time so super hard climbers usually move away.
Cochise Stronghold and the Catalina Mountains, more often referred to as Mt. Lemmon are where most of the climbing activity occurs. The Stronghold has lots of old school sphincter puckering trad routes and a higher number of more heavily bolted lines that make for a less terrifying day. The climbs reach to the summits of majestic domes of granite that are highlighted by green and yellow lichen. Late afternoon sunsets lighting these walls will take your breath away.
The Catalina Mountains have hundreds of multi pitch routes but most think of it as a cragging area. Located on the northern edge of Tucson it sees the highest concentration of climbers. The 30 mile long Catalina highway has a couple of thousand climbs within 30 minutes of the road. Even so if you walk a short distance you can often have the crag to yourself. If you get away from these two areas and visit the less traveled areas you can easily eliminate contact with other climbers and still find some great climbing. Wherever you end up the weather will usually cooperate and the warmth of the desert will have you smiling. Getting ThereTucson is the epicenter of southern Arizona. If you are flying in you might find direct flights can be a bit more expensive. Many fly into Phoenix and rent a car and head south. Most cars will get you to most areas but a few will require a high clearance vehicle. If you are driving find your way to I-10 and it will lead you to Tucson. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southern Arizona:
Inner Passage 5.3 Trad, 500 feet Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome
What's My Line? 5.6 A0 R Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400 feet East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin...
Ewephoria 5.7 Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 750 feet Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Slippery When Wet 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Windy Point West : North Fin
Moby Dick 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II West Stronghold : Whale Dome
The Wasteland 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet East Stronghold : The Wasteland
Nightstalker 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet East Stronghold : Owl Rock
Bee Line 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, 280 feet East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome
Steel Crazy 5.9 Sport, 4 pitches, 450 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress
Absinthe of Mallet 5.9+ Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Forest Lawn 5.9+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Rockfellow Group : Bastion Towers
Endgame 5.10a Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle
The Peacemaker 5.10a Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
Days of Future Passed 5.10b PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle
Warpaint 5.10c PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 680 feet, Grade III West Stronghold : Westworld Dome
Steve's Arete 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Windy Point East : Hunchback Pinnacle
Abracadaver 5.11a Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome
Hard Day at The Orifice 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress
Orifice Politics 5.12 Sport, 105 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress
Coup de' tat 5.13 Sport, 100 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress
Featured Route For Southern Arizona
 This Lemmon classic is a must-do for tradsters solid in the grade. Fun, but sustained and not entirely casual. Climb broken, blocky dihedrals up to large corner. Layback a beautiful flake up and right for about 12 ft. Exit this flake and finish straight up face to chains. Either lower or walk off....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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