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DescriptionSoutheastern Alaska includes Juneau, the Wrangell Saint Elias Range, Kitimat Range and others. Getting ThereTo access these areas can be accomplished by flying into Juneau International Airport and then bush plane or train in some cases. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeastern Alaska/Coastal Range:
Bear Mountain Falls WI3+ Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300 feet Sitka : Bear Mountain
Serpant's Sister WI3 R Trad, TR, Ice, 40 feet Sitka : Sawmill Cove
Watching TB WI4 Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 120 feet Sitka : Sawmill Cove
Tunnel vision V3 Boulder, 25 feet Skagway : Incinerator Crag
Great White Conqueror AI4 M5+ A1 Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2500 feet, Grade V Juneau : Mendenhall Towers
Pullout Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Skagway : Black Lakes Crag
Solva Buttress 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Juneau : Mendenhall Towers
East Ridge (via Southeast face) 5.8+ Steep Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb
center route 5.8+ TR, 70 feet Harriet Hunt
Direct East Ridge 5.8+ Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine, 3000 feet, Grade V Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb
Fogels-Visscher 5.9+ C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV Juneau : Mendenhall Towers
the aret 5.10a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Harriet Hunt
Plumb-Stuzman (Northeast Rib of the North Face) 5.10- Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 55 pitches, 6000 feet, Grade VI Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb
Kruezer doctorman 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Skagway : 4 mile crag
Crescent Crack 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Dyea : Tidal Flats
zigzag 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet Skagway : Black Lakes Crag
The Wave 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Skagway : Black Lakes Crag
The Orange Wall? 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Skagway : Black Lakes Crag
Iron Curtian 5.12a Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Juneau : Mendenhall Towers
Incinerater Crack 5.12a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Skagway : Incinerator Crag
Featured Route For Southeastern Alaska/Coastal Range
Incinerater Crack 5.12a/b AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Incinerator Crag
This is one of the hardest established climbs in Skagway. Climb the overhanging crack that starts at BD .4 and goes to BD 1 to a stance under the intimidating roof.Place a BD 1 cam and begin out the roof. The roof starts at BD 1 and goes to BD 3 at the lip. The crux is pulling over the lip. Place a hex near the lip to keep your rope from getting eaten by the crack....[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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