Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts.
||Snow, Alpine, 3100', Grade III
|FA: ||July 18th, 1957 V. Day, F. Henostroza, A.Jamanca, T. McCormick, and A. Morales|
|Season: ||May -August|
|Page Views: ||1,539|
|Submitted By: ||TYeary on Mar 6, 2009|
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Urus Este summit with Ishinca, Ranrapalca, Ocshapa...
Urus Este, 5420 meters
Southeast slopes to East Ridge
PD- Elevation gain, 1040 meters
Time 5 hours approx. from base camp
From the footbridge crossing the stream, follow the trail toward the Ishinca Refugio. Just as you approach the hut, to the left you will see a sign, Urus Este. This marks the beginning of the trail leading up through bushes and gullies to the moraine coming down from Urus Este.
Follow the moraine crest, more or less upward. Near the top, the moraine curves to the right and levels off. After about 300 feet, follow cairns on slabs out left, up to the toe of the glacier.
Climb 45* snow along the left side of a rock buttress for about 300 feet. At this point you will cross over the buttress on slabs to the snow slopes on the Southeast side of the peak. Climb this snow field for about 600 feet toward a small rock buttress. Angle up and left passing under the rock buttress. Climb the final 45* slopes of the East Ridge to the summit. In dryer years there will be much exposed rock here (a bit loose!) and easy scrambling takes you to the top.
Ref. Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca
Brad Johnson, 2003
Ice axe, Rope, crampons, couple of pickets.
Urus Este, 5420 meters, from the southeast.
Southeast Slopes and East Ridge, Urus Este
Southeast Slopes and East Ridge.
Upper Southeast Slopes to the East Ridge
Upper slopes of Urus Este
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