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South/East side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

South/East side  


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Elevation: 6,400'
Page Views: 20,770
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Forecast:
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Clear
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Clear
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56° | 29°
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BETA PHOTO: The South/East side of The Overlook. (I couldn't f...

Description 

Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Climbing here on winter mornings is very pleasant.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the Beta Photo.

Getting There 

Follow directions for the main area, The Overlook.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',6],['5.9',7],['5.10',6],['5.11',11],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South/East side:
Headwall Crack Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Polly's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 60'   
Box Overhang Left   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Headwall Crack Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   
Cholla Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   
M.C. Epic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   
Holy Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 55'   
Cholla Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 55'   
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 60'   
Bosker Boozeroo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Len's Roof   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Way Beyond Zebra   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 65'   
Paul's Boutique   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Nice Guys Finish Last   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 63'   
Double Vision / Ream Dream   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Thorazine Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Face Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in South/East side

Featured Route For South/East side
Allison pulling hard on the mono through the crux....

Thorazine Dream 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South/East side
Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a tenuous mantle-type move to really get going. Climb the thin, slabby face past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, technical face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way through the short, pronounced crux past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of South/East side Slideshow Add Photo
Overlook
Overlook
Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983
Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983
A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's he...
A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's he...

Comments on South/East side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 13, 2008
Thanks to the climber that donated "fixed" carabiners on Double Vision / Ream Dream, Way Beyond Zebra, and Face Off recently. Let's hope some naive climber doesn't see them and think he scored some bootie (like the last time this occurred on Way Beyond Zebra.)
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jan 11, 2009
Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?

Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 11, 2009
Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty".
By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Feb 23, 2011
I like Jason's idea about putting wire around the biners to make sure people know they're suppose to be there but maybe a zip tie will work better because it wont scrape and wear down the metal on the biner like wire will.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 25, 2011
Hey Owen, I've applied both types and find the zip ties degrade and crack pretty quickly. The bailing wire doesn't negatively impact the chains or biners in any fashion and lasts longer. Thankfully, I believe folks have finally understood that the biners are "fixed" and they've stopped disappearing. It just took a little while for that mindset to set in. Also, spray painting the biners an ugly rust color helped in that the biners were far less appealing that way. And they are more cammoed so they blend in with the rock better--less visually annoying.
By Orlando
Feb 25, 2011
Try stainless steel zip ties, available at most hardware stores. They're kinda expensive (maybe a buck each?) but work well and should last the life of the carabiner. Cheers.
By Matt Balkey
Jan 9, 2012
I found some quickdraws on the anchors for Box Overhang Right this past Saturday. If these belong to you, let me know.