A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?
Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today.
Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty".
I like Jason's idea about putting wire around the biners to make sure people know they're suppose to be there but maybe a zip tie will work better because it wont scrape and wear down the metal on the biner like wire will.
Hey Owen, I've applied both types and find the zip ties degrade and crack pretty quickly. The bailing wire doesn't negatively impact the chains or biners in any fashion and lasts longer. Thankfully, I believe folks have finally understood that the biners are "fixed" and they've stopped disappearing. It just took a little while for that mindset to set in. Also, spray painting the biners an ugly rust color helped in that the biners were far less appealing that way. And they are more cammoed so they blend in with the rock better--less visually annoying.