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Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Mar 21, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: View of Albuquerque from the lower half of the rou...

Description 

Hill's guide indicates this is a 5.2. I'd say 5.6-ish by today's standards although certainly not sustained. It is quite similar to the technical pitches of Northwest Ridge although only for a couple pitches.

We climbed this route in mid-March, two days after a storm. The route had quite a lot of snow and all of our party of four stayed in approach shoes / boots until the chimney pitch.

"P1": ~350 feet of up to 4th class. From the ridge's toe near the La Luz Trail, ascend the ridge until just before a distinct notch in the ridge. We usually rope up at about the mid-point for the remainder.

P2: ~100 feet, 4th: Cross the notch and then up to where the ridge goes vertical / bulges. Escape to right side of ridge just past a pitchy tree to a nice ledge below an easy hand crack.

P3: ~200 feet, 5.6. Ascend the crack (crux-ish) up and right to a large pod. Pass the pod on the right and then head to the base of the chimney, or belay in/near the pod before continuing ... there is not a lot of belay-worthy pro between the pod and the chimney. Ascend cracks just to immediate left of chimney (crux-ish) until able to stem back across.

Continue to top of chimney and then up left onto ridge. If you have enough rope, follow the ridge through a notch and then up to a 6 in diameter tree roughly 10 feet up from the notch; otherwise, belay on the ridge where you can.

The level of difficulty of P3 may be height dependent and/or dependent on whether one starts in the bottom off-width section of the chimney.

P4: ~130 feet, 5.5 Continue to the summit by ascending mostly straight up from the tree. Don't miss the partially driven piton. Pass a much bigger tree well to its' left and scramble up blocky terrain to summit.

VARIATIONS:

"P1": There is a 5.6 deviation out on the west face which is not easy to protect (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88). It rejoins the main route at the notch of P2.

P3: The chimney can be avoided by climbing mostly straight up from the right of the pod, perhaps with a jog left on a flat ledge to gain the ridge.

P4: As a variation, Hill's guide shows a 5.6 way out on the west face which we have not fully explored (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88).

Location 

Start where the La Luz Trail is just south of the toe of the ridge. We started in the gully and then crossed left to the ridge proper.

Protection 

Light rack to 2 or 3 inches, perhaps a little more if skipping the optional belay at the pod.


Photos of Southeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Off-width on the 3rd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Off-width on the 3rd pitch
Pulpit SE Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Pulpit SE Ridge
View of Albuquerque from 3rd pitch
View of Albuquerque from 3rd pitch
Looking up the crux pitch 3 adorned with flowers.  The chimney is just visible near the top of photo.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the crux pitch 3 adorned with flowers. ...

Comments on Southeast Ridge Add Comment
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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 26, 2010

Cool...didn't know anybody else who has done this thing!

I down climbed it one day and it didn't feel 5.7.

Maybe I went a different way?

Weird.

Nice views though!

Jeremy
By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Dec 15, 2012

Found a jacket off to the east side of the ridge on 8 December, 2012. Looks like it had been there awhile but still in useful condition. Email (snell at mindspring dot com) details and I can arrange pickup in Albuquerque.

Howard