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Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Mar 21, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: View of Albuquerque from the lower half of the rou...

Description 

Hill's guide indicates this is a 5.2. I'd say 5.6-ish by today's standards although certainly not sustained. The crux(es) are similar to that on Northwest Ridge.

We climbed this route in mid-March, two days after a storm. The route had quite a lot of snow and all of our party of four stayed in approach shoes / boots until the chimney pitch.

First part: ~350 feet, 4th class. From the ridge's toe near the La Luz Trail, ascend the ridge until just before a distinct notch in the ridge. We usually rope up about half way at a point nearby this tree/view: Photo.

P2: ~100 feet, 4th class: Cross the notch and then up to where the ridge goes vertical. Veer rightward on the large ledge past a pitchy tree until below an easy vertical hand crack.

P3: ~110 feet, 5.6. Ascend the crack (crux-ish) up and then right to a large pod. Pass the pod on the right and then head to the base of the chimney. Ascend the chimney (crux-ish); cracks on the left are helpful. Belay at the top of the chimney.

P4: ~170 feet, 5.5. Continue up to the summit by directly ascending the ridge, passing rightward of a ~6 inch diameter healthy tree. Don't miss the partially driven piton. Higher up, pass leftward of a much larger tree and scramble up blocky terrain to summit.

VARIATIONS:

a) Roughly 100' up the route, there is a 5.6 deviation via a traversing ramp out on the west face. This is not easy to protect (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88). We did it in two pitches. It rejoins the main route at the notch of "P2".

b) The chimney can be avoided by climbing mostly straight up when just right of the pod, perhaps with a jog left on a flat ledge to gain the ridge. It's a little disconcerting given the quality of the rock.

c) As a variation to the last pitch, Hill's guide shows a 5.6 way out on the west face which we have not fully explored (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88). There is a needed old bolt that should probably be replaced (~2010).

Location 

Start where the La Luz Trail is just south of the toe of the ridge. We started in the gully and then crossed left to the ridge proper.

Protection 

Light rack to 3 inches.


Photos of Southeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Off-width on the 3rd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Off-width on the 3rd pitch
Pulpit SE Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Pulpit SE Ridge
View of Albuquerque from 3rd pitch
View of Albuquerque from 3rd pitch
Looking up the crux pitch 3 adorned with flowers. ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the crux pitch 3 adorned with flowers. ...

Comments on Southeast Ridge Add Comment
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By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Dec 15, 2012

Found a jacket off to the east side of the ridge on 8 December, 2012. Looks like it had been there awhile but still in useful condition. Email (snell at mindspring dot com) details and I can arrange pickup in Albuquerque.

Howard
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