|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 800', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Dalen, David Nordstrom - June 5, 1981|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring or fall|
|Page Views: ||370|
|Submitted By: ||docsavage on Dec 22, 2011|
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Barbers summit block detail
Begin on the east side with a scramble of several hundred feet up the prominent gully, mostly 3rd class with a move or two of 5th. The second may appreciate a rope although the leader will find little protection. The gully ends atop the broad shoulder directly south of the summit block. Here some old slings may be seen below a large overhang, remnants of some unknown earlier attempt. Successful? You decide. The free route begins by climbing the rib to the left up a broken trough to a ledge from whose right end several (crux) moves head back left to a clean groove that leads to a straight-in hand-and-fist crack: your reward for getting this far. Above this crack find a 1/4" x 1-1/2" rawl bolt that is used for rappel off a doubled 60m rope. The summit is capped by a large boulder that is easily surmountable.
Rap off the bolt just below the summit back down to the shoulder. Slings around boulders provide anchors for the rappel back down the main gully.
BETA PHOTO: Southeast Gully route
Scott Dalen on an early reconnaissance climb, rapp...
Barber Peak from the approach road off US 491 sout...
Chrusher on the 2nd pitch.
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