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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 3. Higher Cathedral S…
Southeast Face
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 3. Higher Cathedral Spire
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East Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ PG13 |
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Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southeast Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spire it up (first 2 pitches) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Steck Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Keith Edwards, Fred Cady (Jun, '70) -- FFA: Keith Reynolds, Alvino Pon (late '80s) |
| Page Views: | 1,241 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A worthwhile line between the Regular Route and the East Corner. Follows a huge left-facing flake and corner which you will probably notice on the final bit of the approach. The guidebook calls the route 5.10d, but I thought it was significantly easier - maybe only 10a or so. The first pitch is really nice, and the climb has good position and exposure, but also some rotten rock in one section on the second pitch.
From the Regular Route scramble uphill to the highest point along the base of the south face. Then descend a short ways to reach the bottom of a prominent fist crack. This is the start of the route.
P1 - Jam and lieback up the 3-4" crack, passing through a roof. Belay at slings around a block, which can be backed-up by cams to the right.
P2 - Climb up the corner with a bit of offwidthing, then undercling under the roof into some chossy rock. At the left end of the roof either go straight up or climb further left then up and back right. (The guidebook shows a belay out left, but the rock is very poor quality). Place a directional in a horizontal crack to keep the rope from getting stuck at the edge of the roof, then climb up through a tricky bulge and either belay on a manzanita covered ledge, or from a solid 3" crack just below it.
P3&4 - From the ledge there are a few finishing options (the Steck Route and East Corner also all converge on this ledge). The best finish is up an obvious finger crack near the right end of the ledge (hard 5.9 to start). Then wander up ledges to the left and finish up a short thin crack. Belay on a 3rd class ramp just below the summit. You can do this in one pitch.
Rap the Regular Route to descend (one 70m rope, or a 60m works but requires a short easy downclimb after the first rappel)
From the Regular Route scramble uphill to the highest point along the base of the south face. Then descend a short ways to reach the bottom of a prominent fist crack. This is the start of the route.
P1 - Jam and lieback up the 3-4" crack, passing through a roof. Belay at slings around a block, which can be backed-up by cams to the right.
P2 - Climb up the corner with a bit of offwidthing, then undercling under the roof into some chossy rock. At the left end of the roof either go straight up or climb further left then up and back right. (The guidebook shows a belay out left, but the rock is very poor quality). Place a directional in a horizontal crack to keep the rope from getting stuck at the edge of the roof, then climb up through a tricky bulge and either belay on a manzanita covered ledge, or from a solid 3" crack just below it.
P3&4 - From the ledge there are a few finishing options (the Steck Route and East Corner also all converge on this ledge). The best finish is up an obvious finger crack near the right end of the ledge (hard 5.9 to start). Then wander up ledges to the left and finish up a short thin crack. Belay on a 3rd class ramp just below the summit. You can do this in one pitch.
Rap the Regular Route to descend (one 70m rope, or a 60m works but requires a short easy downclimb after the first rappel)
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